2019 Si6 Oil change observations
#1
2019 Si6 Oil change observations
I did the oil change on our 2019 Si6 today. Got the oil change kit and cabin filter from Atlantic British for around $200 with tax, it has the Castrol Edge Oil, filter and even a new drain plug in it.
I used a Mityvac 7201 of Amazon, using the big pipe and then one of the rubber ends to give a nice tight fit on the tube in the filler. Started extracting and then loosened the oil filter to let it drain. Gave a good few extra pumps and at one point I was worried that it may get too full. I pumped out a gal into a container and then proceeded to extract the oil. During this period I just swapped the oil filter with the new rubber seal, put some new oil on the seal, etc.
I added a LLAMS electronic suspension lift lately and had it raised to off-road height and the LLAMS at may height (another 2.5" or so). Made it easier to slide in underneath. I pulled the skid plate, which was 9 or so 15mm bolts. At least 2 center rear ones you only loose and then slide the skid plate out. It felt like aluminum and not too heavy duty, so easy to remove. Hopefully is string enough with all the mounts points, but the front diff edge is exposed with a cutout in the skid plate - hmmm. Anyway got to the drain plug, with the sump being a cast aluminum or similar material, but nice and deep so oil should find it's way down there in extreme angles. At most I drained 2-3 ounces of oil, hardly seemed worth the effort for all the extra work. I would probably only do this again at 60k or higher miles as there wasn't a lot of oil that drained at all.
The cabin filter swap is relatively easy, just hold the recirculate button for a few seconds to keep it open. Also note that if the AC is on the recirculate cover will not close fully. I was worried initially that I broke something as it didn't close completely. But seems to be working that way, will see. If I turn off the AC it does close fully.
Filling with oil is a little painful if you don't want to spill, after the first qt went in I cut it to make a redneck funnel- see picture. Worked perfectly and I could add the other its pretty quickly without spilling. I just put in 7qts to start. Turned on the engine and let it run till it warmed up. Shut it off and waited a few minutes before checking. It was pretty low, so I added another qt. Repeated the process and it was all the way full with 8qts. I would suggest people start with 7qts, then go to 7.5qts, etc. Making sure it is warm and had enough time to drain back in the sump. No way it would take 9qts that supplied in the kit and the LR specs. Guess 9qts in a new completely dry engine. I pumped the oil out and even went to drain it to get it all out.
Either way, hopefully this helps the next guy. FYI the service reset sticky works, but it is fine to open the door before popping the hood. On th SI6 it resets to 16150 miles to the next service.
I used a Mityvac 7201 of Amazon, using the big pipe and then one of the rubber ends to give a nice tight fit on the tube in the filler. Started extracting and then loosened the oil filter to let it drain. Gave a good few extra pumps and at one point I was worried that it may get too full. I pumped out a gal into a container and then proceeded to extract the oil. During this period I just swapped the oil filter with the new rubber seal, put some new oil on the seal, etc.
I added a LLAMS electronic suspension lift lately and had it raised to off-road height and the LLAMS at may height (another 2.5" or so). Made it easier to slide in underneath. I pulled the skid plate, which was 9 or so 15mm bolts. At least 2 center rear ones you only loose and then slide the skid plate out. It felt like aluminum and not too heavy duty, so easy to remove. Hopefully is string enough with all the mounts points, but the front diff edge is exposed with a cutout in the skid plate - hmmm. Anyway got to the drain plug, with the sump being a cast aluminum or similar material, but nice and deep so oil should find it's way down there in extreme angles. At most I drained 2-3 ounces of oil, hardly seemed worth the effort for all the extra work. I would probably only do this again at 60k or higher miles as there wasn't a lot of oil that drained at all.
The cabin filter swap is relatively easy, just hold the recirculate button for a few seconds to keep it open. Also note that if the AC is on the recirculate cover will not close fully. I was worried initially that I broke something as it didn't close completely. But seems to be working that way, will see. If I turn off the AC it does close fully.
Filling with oil is a little painful if you don't want to spill, after the first qt went in I cut it to make a redneck funnel- see picture. Worked perfectly and I could add the other its pretty quickly without spilling. I just put in 7qts to start. Turned on the engine and let it run till it warmed up. Shut it off and waited a few minutes before checking. It was pretty low, so I added another qt. Repeated the process and it was all the way full with 8qts. I would suggest people start with 7qts, then go to 7.5qts, etc. Making sure it is warm and had enough time to drain back in the sump. No way it would take 9qts that supplied in the kit and the LR specs. Guess 9qts in a new completely dry engine. I pumped the oil out and even went to drain it to get it all out.
Either way, hopefully this helps the next guy. FYI the service reset sticky works, but it is fine to open the door before popping the hood. On th SI6 it resets to 16150 miles to the next service.
The following 2 users liked this post by andries:
1979rover (10-26-2020),
DeusMexMachina (10-24-2020)
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