Walmart now carries (on the shelves & online) the correct spec STJLR 03.5006 oil for the 3.0 S/C motors. $29.48 per 5qt.

Castrol Edge EP 0W-20. https://www.walmart.com/ip/EDGE-Exte...0&from=/search

"Rated" for 25k miles but I'd definitely still stick to the lower 5-8k OCI. With an OE Mahle OX774D filter, that puts an oil change around $80-85 with 1.5 quarts extra.

 

Update, they rolled the price back to 25.97, even cheaper.

 

I will stick with Liqui Moly TopTec 6600 for $60.

Something about that Castrol price, like 87 octane, doesn't sound right to me. I've used Castrol in a VW TDI which I bought new in 2010. Dealers never had the right oil on the invoice, but swore they used the VWLL01 spec.

Finally being fed up of the shenanigans, I did my own oil changes. Castrol and Mobil1 ESP were the only 2 spec oils on the shelf for the TDI.

When I used Mobil1 ESP, the difference at the first start was remarkable. The engine sounded silky smooth, like a sewing machine, and over time (one tank was 705 miles of range, the fuel economy was even better (55mpg).

On a following oil change, I went back to Castrol. Immediate difference in sound at idle. Noticable DPF regen frequency (which leads to much worse fuel economy).

Same goes for the present day. Liqui Moly TopTec 6600 had to be ordered online. Immediate difference in sound at idle. The gas aj126 sc V6 sounds like a sewing machine. Very refined and smooth. No difference in fuel economy but I will stick with anything but Castrol.

I'm changing my oil to make sure I know how much comes out (digital dip stick sucks), and to make sure the right oil goes in. I'm saving money by doing the simple job myself. I'm not doing the oil change to save money. If I wanted to have the cheapest oil change, I would use Castrol.

But I'm keeping this L462 as long as possible, so I will avoid the cheap oil. Yes, LM TT 6600 is a PITA to get. Just order 16L and you're ready for a year or 10k-20k miles of oil changes. That translates to a lot of enjoyable miles versus Castrol "el cheapo" questionable rattle box miles. All for what? Saving $40 bucks? I wouldn't risk it, especially as the older L462 will likely end up hitting more trails in the remote areas. It's gotta stay reliable as it ages, and I don't think Castrol does anything but achieve mpg targets for EPA homologation.

https://www.reddit.com/r/rangeroversport/s/TEcuPR28Li

 

😂
Subjective vs. Objective.

Castrol VOA and UOA on EP 0w-20 look great, plenty of moly, ti and zinc in the additive pack. Residual TBN is still great too. I have UOA on my past 9 oil changes using Castrol, Valvoline Euro, LM 6600, etc. Add packs are slightly different & viscosity within grade vary a little, but all show excellent numbers.

Good on you if you use LM Top Tec 6600, but it doesn’t make another oil “el cheapo” simply on price, perceived engine sound, and your sample size of 1. Both oils meet STJLR 51.5122 and 03.5006 spec and will work in this application.

 

I don't think any of the science or specs mean anything if it comes down to price. El cheapo oil is cheap, that is exactly what I'm saying. And price dictates that, simply, as a fact. You can buy it if you want. Nothing beats a cheap oil change, unless you are saving that money to replace bearings later. Right? Right? 👍 Maybe you want to be cheap, maybe you aren't keeping the vehicle for long, maybe you don't have that much money - whatever the reason, it outweighs any science of the actual oil. I can say this because the American Petroleum Institute does not have any standards for synthetic oil. "Synthetic oil" in the US that IS CHEAP, (ie: Castrol) does not need to be 100% synthetic. Whereas, in Europe, synthetic oil means 100% synthetic.

So until the US has standards to qualify what is/isn't, I'm not buying the cheap oil or the expensive oil unless I know exactly what it is... And oil is either conventional or blend or synthetic but there is not standard - so we get distracted by detergents, ash, and all the other crap and none of it meets any standards.

So, yeah, buy the cheap stuff and tell me it doesn't matter because I perceived bull doodie and nonsense anecdotally. It doesn't me I'm wrong. I'm saying, why even by US "sythentic" oil that meets some JLR spec if the oils from Europe are fully synthetic to a standard?

https://www.landroverusa.com/ownership/castrol-oil.html

https://www.api.org/products-and-ser...le%20for%20use.

Might as well use Canola oil. After all, it is cheaper than Castrol... Seed oils, are they conventional or synthetic?

 

Great idea, I’ll pick up 8L of Mazola next time I’m at the store.

Yikes.

 

Because, in FACT, Castrol oil is high quality oil that meets the specs. But if you think the Moly makes your engine quieter and the perceived peace of mind is worth the price, that's great. No need make up arguments.

 

No need to make up facts. I'm just saying cheap oil is cheap oil and what you think is synthetic is not synthetic. Most oil changes cost more when using synthetic when you're not even getting 100% synthetic. Castrol hasn't been the best even though they are labeled as recommended and Mobil 1 and LM are better and worth the price in my experience.

 

It’s “recommended” because someone (Castrol) pays someone (JLR) for the visibility. This is called marketing. Yes, there isn’t anything wrong with their oil but neither is there anything wrong with many other oil brands.

Volvo is the same.

 

My whole point is that Castrol used to only be available at the dealership. And it wasn't cheap. Now you can get it at Walmart and it is cheap. The US doesn't have standards for synthetic oil yet dealers charge more for "synthetic" oil. I am saying LM comes from the EU and meets a synthetic standard and it is not cheap. Use what you want, but don't expect $5 per liter oil to be "the best" for the aj26.