Glad I found this! I was pulling my hair out trying to figure out what was causing this. I had been dealing with electrical issues for the last three weeks. Dealer wasn't really helpful when I took it to them to ask about it. Most of the time, it was just a bunch of relays clicking on/off in the rear, and every once in awhile, the infotainment screen would go blank and/or the audio would go out. However, I did have a couple of times when fully off where the entire car acted like the battery was completely dead and nothing would turn on. What was interesting was, if I touched/moved the ground wire coming from the battery, the car would "wake up" and start like nothing was wrong. Using the solution suggested here to connect the two ground studs has been working for the last day. Still cautiously optimistic.

If there are any issues with electrical circuits, I would start here. One thing I noticed was measuring the voltage across the battery terminals gave 12.5V. If I measured across the positive and the car's grounding stud (the one connected with the ground wire to the battery [that's the more forward bolt]), I would get 12.5V. However, measuring across the positive terminal and the ground stud that is farther back (@WifesDisco5 it's right about 1ft from ground wire) was all over the place between 6-9V. After connecting the two studs, I have a steady 12.5V no matter how I measure.

FYI - It appears the rearward ground stud is what is used for the rear relay box and the jumper posts in the engine compartment. My battery charger connected to the front jumper posts was showing the same symptoms of fluctuating voltage. I can only guess the manufacturer's grounding of the chassis is not done great in this car. Hopefully, that's not the case anymore.

 

Definitely going to do this now. No call back from the dealer yet (still under warranty) after several messages, so they must be running in circles trying to figure out how to solve it using only the original manufacturing setup.

 

here’s a photo, the stud in the lower side of the image is the other stud the I bridged with.

 

Thanks for this!

 

What gauge wire did you use?

 

Got mine back from the dealership who replaced a faulty fuel control module as it was throwing the circuit fault error. We'll see if it holds up.

 

I used 4 AWG wire.

 

I now have this installed, along with the dealership's new fuel control module and fuel pump.

Sometimes when I start the vehicle it dies. I can eventually start it but it is like it runs out of gas. Also, it might run for a minute then I put it in gear and start going and it dies, same "out of gas" feeling. It has a new fuel control module/relay, and a new fuel pump. I think electricity occasionally must not get to the fuel pump. This leaves me planning to focus on wiring to the fuel pump, including grounds.

If anyone has worked on wiring to the fuel pump please let me know.

 

So @Hatem who worked this fix out a massive thank you!!! You saved my @55 big style. Drove from the UK to Italy and the Battery warning started to show... was okay for a few days until it wasn't and the car just died in a campsite.... AA roadside assantence jump started it started and got going! Any way long (hot and frustrating) story later and a £4 ground extension has sorted it.

 

Just curious if these “fixes” actually fixed your disco? Our ‘20 is currently at the dealer, they replaced the fuel control module already and now want to swap out the fuel pump.
I ran across this thread when our electrical issue started and ran a cable between the two ground studs and that seemed to cut down on the random dead gas pedal / stalling issues quite a bit but not completely. The cable did seem to stop our battery drain issue, so obviously the ground stud recall did not actually fix that issue.
Before dropping another $2k into the problem for a new fuel pump, I’d like to know if that’s actually the issue or if it’s yet another electrical gremlin and the fuel pump just happens to be the code it’s thrown.