I understand that the crossover pipes on SCV6 were an updated/improved one piece (but still plastic) design for 2019 and 2020 model years. Have obviously read the stories of failed crossover pipes on 2017/2018 year D5’s (along with older 5.0 and SCV6 in other LR models). Still have it on my radar to replace preventatively on my 2020 (43k miles) but don’t see the horror stories of any 2019/2020 failures like those fitted with the older design. Wanted to see if anyone had experience with the ‘newer’ plastic design failing and at what age/mileage. Hoping I can safely get more mileage out of them as I prefer to wrench on it myself (when time allows with two young kids) versus taking to a shop. Cheers,

 

I haven’t found the shop manual instructions for removing the supercharger yet. Can someone please post them? Removal is required to replace the rear crossover pipe I believe.

 

Here is a picture of the old design versus the new plastic one. There are aluminum ones available now and a bit further down in posts it looks like LR has released their official version of these so that would be worth looking into. I did mine back in early 2022 as some preventive maintenance (front and rear) at the same time I updated my supercharger to one with a 12% reduction pulley. Zero issues with the new plastic design within those 2 years after I replaced the parts. I am sure it needs more time to see if the issues continue with the new design.

As for the shop manual just use the 14-16 LR4 manual with the same engine. This is what I used for the procedure, torque specs, and part numbers. https://www.landroverworld.org/threa...-manual.44602/

 

How many miles since you replaced yours? Will definitely look to aluminum when I do mine, just trying to get baseline of how the ‘updated’ plastic design has performed. Was the S/C pulley worth it?

 

20k miles and no sign of issues when the engine was torn apart due to fuel contamination. They showed no signs of wear at this time but when I replaced the originals (not upgraded) at 60k the front was leaking. If they decide to replace the engine on the insurance claim I will go ahead and swap to the aluminum ones while they are in there. I would say replacing every 60 K if you are doing it yourself is cheap insurance on these SCV6s.

I can tell a difference. It pulls just as well as my LR4 5.0 off the line now and power for towing (hills) is better. The SC noise is more noticeable as well.

 

How does contaminated gas destroy the engine and how do you avoid contaminated gas? 😬 I'm not taste testing 😅

Guessing this is nothing to do with premium vs regular gas...

 

I would not recommend it. Water in the gasoline. Usually, it would not be a major issue but it appears to have been enough to cause issues on the valves and blow a hole in the side of one cylinder. Apparently, the area that I had gotten gas during a trip had flooded the week before and the storage tanks were never checked. I have had several repair shops review the findings as well as the bad parts themselves and each came to the same conclusion. Water in the gas while under heavy load (towing a 6.5k lb RV at the time). I found out later the gas station I stopped at along the drive has a reputation for having this issue before.

 

Thank you for that shop manual link. I'm pretty competent at this kind of stuff but I look at the diagram of the supercharger and it looks like lot of parts to remove and lots of gaskets to replace. Unless it's not as involved as it appears. I have attached just one page of that shop manual below. Can you tell me what parts or numbers in the picture you actually had to remove to get to the rear crossover pipe? Thanks again.

 

Sure. I needed to remove all supporting bolts (1,2,3) at the told of the SC. Be careful with these on reinstall as the aluminum threads are soft where the bolts go. I disconnected the hoses going to the throttle body as well as the electrical connection listed as number 15 (goes into the top of bypass valve). Now the hard part is not shown. Part number 7 has an electrical connection that you have to pull off. I was able to get my hand back there and remove it but it was hard to see. the 4 coolant lines will need to be removed and placed out of the way. Also plan on replacing part 13 the gaskets and that should be about it. Here is a picture of the back of the SC that will give you an idea of the connections there. The one on the right I am trying to remember if anything was connected. I don't think so as it was a drain tube. Also I did not have puller system that has been mentioned in some write up. Summit sells one for about $100 for supercharger system. I just used a pry bar around several point around the engine to gently get it lifted away. Be careful of course not to leverage against any plastic bits

when doing so.

 

Thank you again. That’s super helpful. I will have to print this and look at the pictures and get it straight in my head.