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No problem. If any questions come up just let me know. I actually found the rear cross over a bit easier on the SCV6 to do than my 5.0 LR4. At least you have some room back there once the SC is taken out to do the work.
L322 2010 5.0L V8 failed crossover pipe and catastrophic loss of coolant at 130K miles. I wasn't driving otherwise I would've pulled over asap. Engine was cooked and unrepairable. $35K for a new one. Parted the vehicle out - tragic because it was very well maintained.
Sure. I needed to remove all supporting bolts (1,2,3) at the told of the SC. Be careful with these on reinstall as the aluminum threads are soft where the bolts go. I disconnected the hoses going to the throttle body as well as the electrical connection listed as number 15 (goes into the top of bypass valve). Now the hard part is not shown. Part number 7 has an electrical connection that you have to pull off. I was able to get my hand back there and remove it but it was hard to see. the 4 coolant lines will need to be removed and placed out of the way. Also plan on replacing part 13 the gaskets and that should be about it. Here is a picture of the back of the SC that will give you an idea of the connections there. The one on the right I am trying to remember if anything was connected. I don't think so as it was a drain tube. Also I did not have puller system that has been mentioned in some write up. Summit sells one for about $100 for supercharger system. I just used a pry bar around several point around the engine to gently get it lifted away. Be careful of course not to leverage against any plastic bits
when doing so.
Okay a few more questions please:
1. It appears you removed the entire supercharger in one piece and did not separate it from the left and right intake manifolds (nos. 9 and 21), nor from the charge air cooler tank top (no. 4). If this is the case then you didn't need to replace gasket number 5. If this is correct aren't some of the screws 1, 2, and 3 not going to be removed? Maybe just remove the longest ones (nos. 1 and 3)? Does the charge air cooler tank top (no. 4) have to be separated from the left and right intake manifolds (nos. 9 and 21) in order to reach screws that fasten the left and right intake manifolds through the gasket (no. 13), to the top of the engine? You said you replaced gaskets (no. 13) but the description fo 13 is a vibration pad - so is this item actually creating a seal?
2. What parts were being separated when you used a prybar instead of a puller? Removal of the pulley isn't necessary is it?
3. Once the supercharger with attached charge air cooler tank top and intake manifolds is removed, will the rear crossover pipe be ready to be removed and replaced?
Thank you for your help Donc98
Last edited by ponderosajack; Nov 5, 2024 at 10:33 AM.
…to get this back on topic a bit. Doesn’t sound like the widespread failures on 19’/20’ as 17’/18’…or there are just no 19’/20’ owners are anywhere online
I think this is a reasonably good video to show why we're having these failures. The parts in the 2017 2018 are two pieces of plastic joined together And they leak at the seam. The upgraded version is a single plastic unit, less points for failure. Is that what's in the 2020 model? Not sure why they didn't go with aluminum in such a high heat location.... Maybe save some pennies and get to do some repairs 5 years later...
Still waiting for my warranty company to confirm they will cover this repair after they came out to inspect it in the shop and then requested the shop spend time/$ removing the supercharger and sending a video of the leak 🙄
The parts in the 2017 2018 are two pieces of plastic joined together And they leak at the seam. The upgraded version is a single plastic unit, less points for failure. Is that what's in the 2020 model?
Yes, I understand 2019 and 2020 came from factory with the single piece plastic units
Yes, I understand 2019 and 2020 came from factory with the single piece plastic units
Is it safe to assume that any repair/replacement done at the dealership on a 2018 will be with the updated parts? I have an appointment to take my 2018 in on Friday for coolant level dropping, and hopefully will be covered by my 3rd party extended warranty if repairs are needed.
Confirm it with them. I'm asking the repair shop to use the upgraded aluminum parts which they agree with. I would not want to use that two-piece coolant set! I bet Rover has switched over, but better to be safe.
Seems they the 1 piece updated plastic is what they’ve used for replacements but confirm with them. There is another thread on here that LR now has a factory part number for the aluminum pipes, which would seem to be ideal if available
