Land Rover SD 1997 high miles?
I'm looking to buy a 1997 Land Rover with 184,xxx miles on it with a 4.0. I used to have a 1989 RR classic. I know more about them then the Land Rovers. Would you say 184,xxx miles is high for the motor? Also, kinda thinking about the timming and water pump. After what mile should that all should be replaced? Last thing is 184,xxx high for a 4.0 1997 Land Rover? Thank you - junkie4mud
There are ones with 200+.
Common high miles things - water pump, radiator sludged up (have rodded out), possible head gaskets already done, alternator, oil pump (mechanical gauge test), timing chain, front seal, fuel pump (test at fuel rail), swap thermostat out.
Common high miles things - water pump, radiator sludged up (have rodded out), possible head gaskets already done, alternator, oil pump (mechanical gauge test), timing chain, front seal, fuel pump (test at fuel rail), swap thermostat out.
Thank you Buzz for the links. 
The Land Rover is $900 from a family member so I think with 184,000 miles I'll be ok with a tune up and flush the fluids out with new.
Any one know more about high miles on the 4.0 motor?

The Land Rover is $900 from a family member so I think with 184,000 miles I'll be ok with a tune up and flush the fluids out with new.
Any one know more about high miles on the 4.0 motor?
I've got 183K, makes 44PSI oil pressure. You have a whole lot of things to take care of. Just about everything on a D1 is designed to be changed if vehicle gets spashed. Spaces between radiators cleaned out, mud and leaves removed, Radiator coolant flush, brake fluid flush with 2 quarts DOT4 fluid, swivel ***** (CV joints), diffs (some go back with 85W150), transfer case, wheel bearings, all the zerks, and if you come out clean you missed a spot. Tranny fluid and filter (takes some work). Oil. Tighten valve covers. The tuneup should include new wires, high quality silicone, 8mm; and plugs, the cheap Champion copper are fine. Clean the Idle Air Control Valve and bore it fits into with carb cleaner. Don't move the pintle end, just spray it. Clean throttle body butterfly with carb cleaner. Clean out PCV on both valve covers with carb cleaner. Buy some made for MAF cleaner and spray the MAF sensor innards, when engine has sat overnight and not had key in ignition even for a second. Check fuel pressure at tire valve on passenger side fuel rail (32-34 PSI running), Change fuel filter (above right rear tire). Clean battery terminals, the two big wires in the front of the underhood fusebox, and follow the negative cable down to the frame ground by the radiator and clean and retighten that.
In the afternoon, shift the CDL vigorously, needs to be used from time to time. I had success removing the shift boot and snaeking a long straw down beside the shift lever to squirt in plenty of PB Blaster. Replace air cleaner with a paper stock style one, not a K&N.
Rest of afternoon go play.
Download the RAVE and enjoy reading all about everything until time for sleep.
In the afternoon, shift the CDL vigorously, needs to be used from time to time. I had success removing the shift boot and snaeking a long straw down beside the shift lever to squirt in plenty of PB Blaster. Replace air cleaner with a paper stock style one, not a K&N.
Rest of afternoon go play.
Download the RAVE and enjoy reading all about everything until time for sleep.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
omarica7
Discovery I
0
Mar 11, 2014 08:12 AM
IHeartLandRovers
Retired - Private For Sale/Trade Classifieds
6
Aug 9, 2010 08:43 AM
dezlpower
General Range Rover Discussion - Archived
3
Mar 19, 2009 04:54 PM
PrettyLtlThings7
Retired - Private For Sale/Trade Classifieds
1
Nov 8, 2007 10:48 AM



