Hello Everyone,
I just purchased a 2001 Discovery Series II today and I wanted to introduce myself. The truck needs tons of TLC so I am sure I will get to know everyone quite well. This site comes highly recommended and I am looking forward to participating.
Best regards,
Dan

 

Welcome. Please download the RAVE, the factory set of shop and owner manuals for the truck. First order of business is examine your front drive shaft to be sure it has been upgraded to fully greasable on all joints, other wise it can fail and take transmission out. Rebuild article in our tech area. Overheating quite common, the temp gauge points at 50% from 130 - 230F. Use a scanner or Ultra Gauge ($70) to know what your real temps are. This will be important in summer time anywhere within 100 miles of FM1960 and I-45. Research the 180F thermostat many of our members have installed.

 

Thank you for the response. You must have driven my truck. I suspect that I have both problems you listed. When I was picking up the truck I noticed the coolant was low so I stopped at Autozone and had to add 2 gallons and reconnect a hose that had came loose from a small white "bottle" on the passenger side of the radiator. I've never seem a set up like that so I'm not sure what the bottle is called. I made it home and to the car wash to have the truck detailed with no problems, except an intermittent studder when taking off, the drive shaft I assume. Since it was getting late I stopped by Walmart and had the Guinness colored oil changed, although I had picked up two filters when I bought the coolant. I just couldn't leave that oil in the truck till Monday when I could change it myself. Upon arriving home my 7 year old son noticed smoke coming from under the hood. I figured the lube tech spilled some oil, but when I opened the hood to investigate I noticed green coolant seems to be seeping from under the valve cover gaskets. I know that seems unlikely so I suspect that either the intake manifold gasket or both head gaskets will need to be replaced. I called a mechanic friend of mine who will look at it for me and has said he will replace the head gaskets, if needed for $500 labor plus parts. That seems like too good a deal to pass up, but I would welcome your feedback since I am new to the Land Rover family.
You noted the temperature gauge issue and I was wondering why my gauge was staying the center even though I was loosing so much coolant. Looks like I will be installing a new gauge as well.
As for the RAVE. The previous owner gave me the RAVE disk. looks like it will get plenty of use.
Do you know if there are any forum members in the Cypress/Copperfield/ Tomball area?
Again, thanks for the post. I am quite active on the Benzworld 107 forum and some guys over their had the highest of praise for the group here and now I know why.
Dan

 

If it turns out that I have to take my truck to an Indy here in Houston is there one in Northwest Houston that comes recommended? Also, I will have to buy a new key since the one that came with the truck is missing the two buttons and the metal shaft comes out. I called the dealer on Old Katy Road and they said I have to make an appt since they have to re-program the system. Also, they wouldn't tell me how much the key costs over the phone. I have read online it is about $140 and I am prepared to pay that, if necessary, but I didn't like the fact that they wouldn't tell me that over the phone. I doubt anyone buys a Land Rover expecting parts and/or repairs to be cheap. Does anyone have a better option or a recommendation as to which dealer to use? I can use the one I mentioned or the one on North Freeway.

 

I'm having a little difficulty uploading photos to the thread, but I will work on it more this evening so everyone can see the truck.

 

Make pix small, like 1 mp or less, and it is easier.

$500 labor on an HG is a great price, usually shops charge 12-15 hours. But add in some for heads to be checked and milled flat if needed by a machine shop, flatness limit is 0.002 inch. Kit of parts is like $300, use new bolts.

Here is the coolant plumbing map. Flow path is a little different that what you may be used to.

Keep coolant topped up and make minimal driving, overheating block may cause a cylinder sleeve to begin slipping. Pix of the Ultra Gauge.

And please start a new thread, in the D2 area.

BTW, my mid life crisis is a W124 93 Cabrio.

 

Thanks for the help. I'm sorry about the incorrect posts. I intended to start a new thread and I got caught up in this and forgot. I will start one now. Thanks again.

 

Where do you recommend I get the Ultra Gauge? Also, do you recommend the Dex-Cool or green coolant? I put two gallons of green in when I got the truck, but I am concerned whether that was a good idea or not. there wasn't enough coolant in the truck when I picked it up to tell what was in it, but I suspect it was mostly just water.

 

see UltraGauge Automotive Information Center and OBDII Scan Tool , I think they only sell direct.

Dexcool is not advised. When mixed with other coolants or air it changes chemistry and attacks things in the system. Even eats the coolant cap. It can also form a wonderful "dex mud" to block off the tiny radiator passages. On a D2 radiator flush can help a little, but rod out is not practical, replace instead. A check of fins top to bottom should be with in 10F, otherwise gunk has filled up the lower rows and they are much cooler and you have half a radiator. Flush the whole system to get out as much Dexcool as possible.

 

Thanks for the reply. I just ordered the UltraGauge. It should come in very handy.