New Member 98 Disco Love/Hate relationship
#1
New Member 98 Disco Love/Hate relationship
Let me start off and say this forum is AWESOME!
My name is Steven and I live in Tennessee. Last week I purchased a 98 Disco at auction for a price I couldn't pass up. I love so many things about it but hate the fact that it quit on me on the way home
It was driving fine when all of the sudden, I could here a bit of a lifter tick. Then the oil light came on and she died at a stop sign (all happened within 1/2 mile).
I was barely able to start it back up and four-wheel it over to a parking lot (That part was fun!!). But she died pretty quickly after and wouldn't start again.
Investigation: I noticed the fuel gauge was at 1/2 tank. Almost no one will fill a 23+ gallon tank halfway to sell a vehicle at auction. So I then added some gas (2.5 gallons of premium)... no luck!
I had her towed home and noticed that there was no longer a fuel pump prime noise. I then took a few ounces of fuel and poured it into the breather hose past the filter on the engine side. SHE STARTED RIGHT UP! but of course used that fuel up and stalled again.
Do y'all think the fuel gauge was off, I ran it out of fuel, then burned the pump up trying to start it so many times? I heard it running when i tried to start it but never after I added the fuel. Where do you think I should go for next steps?
My name is Steven and I live in Tennessee. Last week I purchased a 98 Disco at auction for a price I couldn't pass up. I love so many things about it but hate the fact that it quit on me on the way home
It was driving fine when all of the sudden, I could here a bit of a lifter tick. Then the oil light came on and she died at a stop sign (all happened within 1/2 mile).
I was barely able to start it back up and four-wheel it over to a parking lot (That part was fun!!). But she died pretty quickly after and wouldn't start again.
Investigation: I noticed the fuel gauge was at 1/2 tank. Almost no one will fill a 23+ gallon tank halfway to sell a vehicle at auction. So I then added some gas (2.5 gallons of premium)... no luck!
I had her towed home and noticed that there was no longer a fuel pump prime noise. I then took a few ounces of fuel and poured it into the breather hose past the filter on the engine side. SHE STARTED RIGHT UP! but of course used that fuel up and stalled again.
Do y'all think the fuel gauge was off, I ran it out of fuel, then burned the pump up trying to start it so many times? I heard it running when i tried to start it but never after I added the fuel. Where do you think I should go for next steps?
#2
Oil light should go out within a second or two of cranking.
There is a schraeder valve (like a tire valve) on the fuel rail on passenger side. You can measure fuel pressure there. Should be about 34 PSI. Pump is only allowed to run for 2 seconds when key turned on, to prevent damage and fire hazard if engine is not turning 80 rpm or better. There is also an inertia switch on the firewall that breaks power to the pump in a crash. It resets on top.
The fuel pump relay is in a plastic box (multifunction relay) on the passenger fenderwall side. Fuel filter is accessed under passenger rear wheel arch. Pump connections are under the plate under the carpet in rear cargo area. Pump draws like 5 amps running.
So if you don't hear pump, and you don't have pressure, could be electrical, could be pump. Pump is immersed in fuel, so driving around on fumes actually increases wear on pump. Refuel at 1/2 tank for longer pump life, and less wallet shock.
Not unheard of to have sender be way off.
Pumps can be pulled as whole units from boneyard, or purchased used; also you can replace just the pump itself (Airtex) for cheap parts cost. See https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...ight=fuel+pump .
Old Discos may have lived a life with a previous owner that ignored all sorts of service items. Look at our tech area for a high miles list of things to do. With age of truck the radiator may need to be hot flushed at a shop and perhaps rodded out (it is brass and copper, very expensive) for like $75. A 180F thermostat would be a plus. Run green coolant, not Dexcool. New plugs and 8mm silicone wires. Drain and fill diffs and trnsfer case, I use 85W140. You'll discover the world of greasing the swivels (drainable CV joints). So much fun awaits you.
Consider a purchase of an Ultra Gauge, about $70. It scans codes, resets them, and can display live data like coolant temp. One of the main reasons people sell a Disco is overheating. There are lots of things that can make it overheat. All waiting for you after you solve the fuel issue.
Full shop and owners manual is a free download, called the RAVE.
And BTW, welcome. Post next in the D1 or general tech area, more owners see those and will respond to you.
There is a schraeder valve (like a tire valve) on the fuel rail on passenger side. You can measure fuel pressure there. Should be about 34 PSI. Pump is only allowed to run for 2 seconds when key turned on, to prevent damage and fire hazard if engine is not turning 80 rpm or better. There is also an inertia switch on the firewall that breaks power to the pump in a crash. It resets on top.
The fuel pump relay is in a plastic box (multifunction relay) on the passenger fenderwall side. Fuel filter is accessed under passenger rear wheel arch. Pump connections are under the plate under the carpet in rear cargo area. Pump draws like 5 amps running.
So if you don't hear pump, and you don't have pressure, could be electrical, could be pump. Pump is immersed in fuel, so driving around on fumes actually increases wear on pump. Refuel at 1/2 tank for longer pump life, and less wallet shock.
Not unheard of to have sender be way off.
Pumps can be pulled as whole units from boneyard, or purchased used; also you can replace just the pump itself (Airtex) for cheap parts cost. See https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...ight=fuel+pump .
Old Discos may have lived a life with a previous owner that ignored all sorts of service items. Look at our tech area for a high miles list of things to do. With age of truck the radiator may need to be hot flushed at a shop and perhaps rodded out (it is brass and copper, very expensive) for like $75. A 180F thermostat would be a plus. Run green coolant, not Dexcool. New plugs and 8mm silicone wires. Drain and fill diffs and trnsfer case, I use 85W140. You'll discover the world of greasing the swivels (drainable CV joints). So much fun awaits you.
Consider a purchase of an Ultra Gauge, about $70. It scans codes, resets them, and can display live data like coolant temp. One of the main reasons people sell a Disco is overheating. There are lots of things that can make it overheat. All waiting for you after you solve the fuel issue.
Full shop and owners manual is a free download, called the RAVE.
And BTW, welcome. Post next in the D1 or general tech area, more owners see those and will respond to you.
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; 11-01-2012 at 08:23 AM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
trialrun
Build Threads
3
11-26-2014 07:04 PM
WAARHEID
New Member Introduction
2
03-07-2010 01:03 PM
juliogrullon
General Range Rover Discussion - Archived
0
04-08-2007 07:43 AM