Toyota guy wanting to try LRs...
I've owned 4wd Toyotas since I started driving 25+ years ago, and have driven most of the trails in the Pacific NW that can be traveled on with a 4WD. I'm a volunteer member of a 4x4 Mobile SAR unit so whatever I go with as my next vehicle can't leave me stranded in the woods and needs to be dependable enough to be a daily driver for about a year.
I'm not a mechanic but I'm not afraid to turn a wrench and read a manual, can install just about anything that bolts on to a rig that doesn't touch the engine block, transmission, transfer case or differentials.
I like the look of the D1s, and the 04 D2s, but man I sure don't hear many good things about them or any Land Rovers in my price range. I just sold a first year FJ Cruiser that I bought new off the lot in late 2006 and there was tons of bad press about it from many angles but in the end it was a solid rig for me, I'm just looking for something different. I normally ignore the media and go to the people who actually own and drive the model vehicle I'm interested in, hence why I'm writing this intro.
I want to spend about $5k total including upgrades and a fresh set of Duratrac's (best tire for what I do). Need to add some 2m radios, CB, lighting all around, and some armor. Don't really need a lift right away unless there isn't a set of Goodyear Duratracs that will fit without it.
A couple options that are staring me in the face, all of them have clean CarFax reports:
'94 Classic LWB 194k that looks to be in good shape $3,500, downside 10mpg, it has OME shocks and sliders.
'95 D1 5spd Manual, 160k average condition for its age, manual would awesome
'97 D1 Auto, 118k looks showroom new cosmetically, not sure mechanically, motivated seller asking $3,300 I can probably get this for $2,500 cash.
'04 D2 130k, looks great cosmetically, says everything is good mechanically $3,500
Or I just go buy a hardtop $5k Jeep TJ with the bulletproof I6 4.0L engine and call it good.
Thanks ahead of time for the input and feedback.
Brian
I'm not a mechanic but I'm not afraid to turn a wrench and read a manual, can install just about anything that bolts on to a rig that doesn't touch the engine block, transmission, transfer case or differentials.
I like the look of the D1s, and the 04 D2s, but man I sure don't hear many good things about them or any Land Rovers in my price range. I just sold a first year FJ Cruiser that I bought new off the lot in late 2006 and there was tons of bad press about it from many angles but in the end it was a solid rig for me, I'm just looking for something different. I normally ignore the media and go to the people who actually own and drive the model vehicle I'm interested in, hence why I'm writing this intro.
I want to spend about $5k total including upgrades and a fresh set of Duratrac's (best tire for what I do). Need to add some 2m radios, CB, lighting all around, and some armor. Don't really need a lift right away unless there isn't a set of Goodyear Duratracs that will fit without it.
A couple options that are staring me in the face, all of them have clean CarFax reports:
'94 Classic LWB 194k that looks to be in good shape $3,500, downside 10mpg, it has OME shocks and sliders.
'95 D1 5spd Manual, 160k average condition for its age, manual would awesome
'97 D1 Auto, 118k looks showroom new cosmetically, not sure mechanically, motivated seller asking $3,300 I can probably get this for $2,500 cash.
'04 D2 130k, looks great cosmetically, says everything is good mechanically $3,500
Or I just go buy a hardtop $5k Jeep TJ with the bulletproof I6 4.0L engine and call it good.
Thanks ahead of time for the input and feedback.
Brian
Honestly price out the upgrade items you want, lights armor tires lift etc. then add $1,000 to that for neglected maintenance and repairs needed, you should then have your answer.
I think with what I'm guessing you want and that budget you would be better off looking for another Yota
I think with what I'm guessing you want and that budget you would be better off looking for another Yota
X2
You will inevitably run into a neglected truck at the 2-3k price range. "Armor" , tires and upgrades will put you out of your budget. Especially if you pay someone to work on it. Sliders alone are close to a grand. Tires your looking at 5-900 depending on size and brand. Leaving you 2-3k for the purchase of the actual truck. Sounds like toyota/jeep money. Off road stuff is cheaper because of the popularity of those trucks.
You will inevitably run into a neglected truck at the 2-3k price range. "Armor" , tires and upgrades will put you out of your budget. Especially if you pay someone to work on it. Sliders alone are close to a grand. Tires your looking at 5-900 depending on size and brand. Leaving you 2-3k for the purchase of the actual truck. Sounds like toyota/jeep money. Off road stuff is cheaper because of the popularity of those trucks.
I'm finding the Jeep TJ is just too small for the volunteer work I do with Search & Rescue.
I've now done so much mechanical work on my 98 Jeep TJ I think I'm ready to take the LR plunge! Replaced the clutch, all new gaskets (except head) and fluids, new exhaust from the manifold back, new master/slave cylinder, new U-Joints, a bunch of cosmetic improvements, etc.
Sounds like from my research the best Land Rover options are a 2006 LR3, 2004 D2, 1995 D1 or 1995 Classic LWB. I'm hoping to find a Classic LWB with a freshly rebuilt engine when I'm ready to buy, as I've always loved the looks of those rigs!
I've now done so much mechanical work on my 98 Jeep TJ I think I'm ready to take the LR plunge! Replaced the clutch, all new gaskets (except head) and fluids, new exhaust from the manifold back, new master/slave cylinder, new U-Joints, a bunch of cosmetic improvements, etc.
Sounds like from my research the best Land Rover options are a 2006 LR3, 2004 D2, 1995 D1 or 1995 Classic LWB. I'm hoping to find a Classic LWB with a freshly rebuilt engine when I'm ready to buy, as I've always loved the looks of those rigs!
I have a few different years of Rovers. My recommendation is the Classic or the D1.
Upsides: the Classic is simpler, easier to work on, better designed cooling system, less to break. The back seat! It's the ultimate rig for fire trails and car camping. So much space in the back and very comfortable seats.
Downsides: harder to find certain parts (seat ECU, window ecu)
Don't worry about the gas mileage thing. They all get crappy mileage. in fact my Classic gets better mileage than my D2's.
The LWB Classic is also going to go up in value. Unless you let it die a rusty death, you'll always get your money back. I think that D1's may begin to follow the same trend.
Upsides: the Classic is simpler, easier to work on, better designed cooling system, less to break. The back seat! It's the ultimate rig for fire trails and car camping. So much space in the back and very comfortable seats.
Downsides: harder to find certain parts (seat ECU, window ecu)
Don't worry about the gas mileage thing. They all get crappy mileage. in fact my Classic gets better mileage than my D2's.
The LWB Classic is also going to go up in value. Unless you let it die a rusty death, you'll always get your money back. I think that D1's may begin to follow the same trend.
Ok, I'm going to try to find a RRC LWB, I'm also going to keep my eyes open for a D1.
Sounds like the drivetrain's in the early (affordable) LR3's are problematic, specifically the diffs. Is this really a common problem or just a few incidences of folks who didn't change fluids on a regular basis? Thanks for your feedback!
Sounds like the drivetrain's in the early (affordable) LR3's are problematic, specifically the diffs. Is this really a common problem or just a few incidences of folks who didn't change fluids on a regular basis? Thanks for your feedback!
Ok, I'm going to try to find a RRC LWB, I'm also going to keep my eyes open for a D1.
Sounds like the drivetrain's in the early (affordable) LR3's are problematic, specifically the diffs. Is this really a common problem or just a few incidences of folks who didn't change fluids on a regular basis? Thanks for your feedback!
Sounds like the drivetrain's in the early (affordable) LR3's are problematic, specifically the diffs. Is this really a common problem or just a few incidences of folks who didn't change fluids on a regular basis? Thanks for your feedback!
Drive train is otherwise fine. Heavy vehicles so expect more wear. Control arms in front go out sooner.
Breathers that was the one thing I did to my FJ Cruiser early on, extended the breathers up to hood level with some fuel line hose, a threaded nipple and a new breather, easy to do except I was under the impression that the FJ had a "sealed" transmission and during an unforeseen 'submarine' event during a flood I sucked in some water into the trans causing a $5k bill, thank God insurance covered the cost. After that event I had all 4x breathers (front/rear diff, e-locker, trans) high enough to ford water up to just over the top of my wheel well, any higher and I would be dealing with too much water inside the cab. That FJ was a great offroad rig, I really liked the A-Trac traction control and was able to go places "locked" jeeps weren't able to, mainly because of poor driver line choices but also in part of trusting the technology vs. a lead foot. I'm liking what I'm reading on the LR Terrain Response system, and can see where a small lift with 32" tires any of the discovery models would get me where I need to go either volunteering with my local mobile SAR unit or overlanding the great pacific nw.
Waiting to hear back from the seller if this is still available, if it is I'm going to go check it out ASAP!
1995 Land Rover Range Rover County LWB
1995 Land Rover Range Rover County LWB


