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I do have the dealer service manual, and been using the wiring diagrams in there. This Evoque is an automatic + gas engine. The alternator is in the absolute worst place, so I lifted the car up so I could reach the plug on it, just to make sure it was connected firmly. I really appreciate the help!
1) I used the special service mode ( right steering paddle + brake) to raise the shift **** so I could at least push the car under the covered area where I live so i could lift it up.
2) The **** is in P when I try and start the car each time.
3) I think I replaced the wrong fuse possibly after looking... how do I test this CAL3 starter fuse thats on the positive terminal? Do I just touch each side of the tan section like in my photo? I replaced the negative fuse link previously.
Last edited by mediopolis; Jul 19, 2020 at 02:02 PM.
Starter fusable link position ---- it can be tested with a multimeter-- resistance check less than 1 ohm is ok !!
I have a feeling this is the problem. I checked the negative terminal fuse link, and that reads 0 and I get a continuity beep. If i'm testing this fuse right, i get no beep and 55+ ohms.
Last edited by mediopolis; Jul 19, 2020 at 03:21 PM.
Hi
The reading of 55.9K is too high consider it open circuit fusable link NBG ( no bloody good) ;-) there is no plus or minus its regarded as a piece of wire connecting two points,
if the wire melts because of excessive surge or current that's its function a 'fuse'
Go for it !!!!
By the way I own the same car but mine is a diesel
Last edited by Mor9h3us; Jul 20, 2020 at 02:59 AM.
I can't believed i missed that inline fuse also. Never even paid attention to it. I ordered the new battery cable with integrated fuse and will report back once I have it installed.
Thanks Mor9h3us! Not only did you unplug me from the Matrix, you saved me a tow to the Stealership!
Well every dealer in the US orders that part from the UK... no kidding. So after finding out it would not be here until Aug 8th. I googled the info on the fuse and realized it was just a normal fuse. I thought it was some special fuse LR made so you can only use 'their cables", lol... nope. So I cut the old fuse off, put a terminal on the wire with a matching fuse on and boom! First push the engine fired up!!! Cleared the codes with my Autel and rescaned. No errors and everything runs like new! $330 LR cable... simple $5 fix! Can't beat it.
Thanks for showing me the door Mor9h3us... I opened it!
For anyone else in this situation.. here are the parts info.
Original Fuse - Tyco Part# 1379570-2 inline fuse... Replace with any 150A 32V Automotive inline fuse.
Last edited by mediopolis; Jul 28, 2020 at 03:52 PM.
Well done !!
Yep I would have done the same but could not advise that to others ;-)
Glad to hear the beast is up and running.
Take care mate all the best from Downunder cheers !!
