2006 l322 4.4l v8 AC compressor replace
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Three Wheeling
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 60
Likes: 2
From: Baltimore MD
2006 l322 4.4l v8 AC compressor replace
2006 l322 4.4l v8.
Symptoms:
warm air not cold, compressor clicking on, not cold at all, vents ok turned to ac/cold not heat.
checked pressures low side was high 60-+ and high side low 120-130psi
thinking it was a weak/bad compressor and not constriction which would have abnormal wacky pressure readings
tips:
tight space. there are 2 different types of ac compressor...sanden and denso...if you have dual climate control i think its denso and all standard is sanden ...for me i ordered a nissens comparable new not reman
i did not remove fan shroud or fan, you can if you want more space. i do suggest removing all airbox, intake hose and remove tray below to gain access from below.
2 main steps: loosen tension on belt 3/8 breaker, and unloop belt from ac and ps pump pulleys
then remove 3 main bolts on side of ac compressor and wiggle the ac compressor out the top.
then vacuum and then refill
easier said than done.
why? hard to get tensioner loose with 3/8 slot on tensioner no space, and the high side hose gets in the way. you may have to loosen the ps cooler on the back of the fan shroud with a star screw to give you more wiggle room. also the high side hose must not be attached on reassembly before you put the belt back on..bc the hose will get in the way.
i did not remove the ps pump as many have done. i was able the reach the bottom bolt 10mm from below. all 3 bolts are on right side and are 10mm but different lengths short on goes in back.
the top bolt looks easy to access but is a $%@%# bc there is no clearance to remove the bolt. so remove all others and wiggle the ac compressor until you get the bolt out. assembly is also a @##$@# for that bolt due to space.
again simple in theory hard in practice due to space and tightness
Symptoms:
warm air not cold, compressor clicking on, not cold at all, vents ok turned to ac/cold not heat.
checked pressures low side was high 60-+ and high side low 120-130psi
thinking it was a weak/bad compressor and not constriction which would have abnormal wacky pressure readings
tips:
tight space. there are 2 different types of ac compressor...sanden and denso...if you have dual climate control i think its denso and all standard is sanden ...for me i ordered a nissens comparable new not reman
i did not remove fan shroud or fan, you can if you want more space. i do suggest removing all airbox, intake hose and remove tray below to gain access from below.
2 main steps: loosen tension on belt 3/8 breaker, and unloop belt from ac and ps pump pulleys
then remove 3 main bolts on side of ac compressor and wiggle the ac compressor out the top.
then vacuum and then refill
easier said than done.
why? hard to get tensioner loose with 3/8 slot on tensioner no space, and the high side hose gets in the way. you may have to loosen the ps cooler on the back of the fan shroud with a star screw to give you more wiggle room. also the high side hose must not be attached on reassembly before you put the belt back on..bc the hose will get in the way.
i did not remove the ps pump as many have done. i was able the reach the bottom bolt 10mm from below. all 3 bolts are on right side and are 10mm but different lengths short on goes in back.
the top bolt looks easy to access but is a $%@%# bc there is no clearance to remove the bolt. so remove all others and wiggle the ac compressor until you get the bolt out. assembly is also a @##$@# for that bolt due to space.
again simple in theory hard in practice due to space and tightness
1st Gear
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Hey Newworld:
Thank you for sharing your experience. In my case with a 2006 L322 4.2SC, I was getting warm air ... My troubleshooting started with (1) low/high pressure to be about right; (2) compressor clutch was engaging; (3) Heating/cooling control panel was sending power to the compressor and the (4) Coolant (heater) control valve, which appeared to not be at fault as it did not help to crimp (block) the coolant path to the heater core - if its solenoid was stuck... I have therefore guessing that the compressor must be bad ...
Do you have any advice on wHeyhether there's any sure way to tell if the compressor is bad if I don't have the setup to tell if the pressure changes when the clutch engages?
Thanks,
Paul
Thank you for sharing your experience. In my case with a 2006 L322 4.2SC, I was getting warm air ... My troubleshooting started with (1) low/high pressure to be about right; (2) compressor clutch was engaging; (3) Heating/cooling control panel was sending power to the compressor and the (4) Coolant (heater) control valve, which appeared to not be at fault as it did not help to crimp (block) the coolant path to the heater core - if its solenoid was stuck... I have therefore guessing that the compressor must be bad ...
Do you have any advice on wHeyhether there's any sure way to tell if the compressor is bad if I don't have the setup to tell if the pressure changes when the clutch engages?
Thanks,
Paul
Thread Starter
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Three Wheeling
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 60
Likes: 2
From: Baltimore MD
ymmv.
all i do is deduce and eliminate some causes and when i looked at my mileage, and compressor lasts about 10 yr or so...needed to replace anyway. ac compressors wear out and i do not buy reman bc according scotty k the most important parts internal pump have metal to metal wear and reman jobs dont address that issue...reman pumps are sterm fixes imo
all i do is deduce and eliminate some causes and when i looked at my mileage, and compressor lasts about 10 yr or so...needed to replace anyway. ac compressors wear out and i do not buy reman bc according scotty k the most important parts internal pump have metal to metal wear and reman jobs dont address that issue...reman pumps are sterm fixes imo
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