Is it possible to remove and replace cylinder heads without removing the lower crank pulley and lower timing covers? I imagine removing the heads will be no problem but it may be difficult to impossible to get the camshaft pulleys back into place with tension on the chain?

I don't want to remove the lower end timing covers if I don't have to as the tensioners and guides have already been replaced only to find bent valves/no compression on one bank.

Thanks,
Roger

Edit: This is on a 5.0 supercharged 2010 Range Rover

 

To answer my own question, I'm in deeply enough to see now. Yes you do have to remove the crank pulley and lower timing chain cover. The timing chain guides are bolted dto the cylinder head not just the block so the tensioner will have to be pinned and the guides removed.

 

I'm at a similar place with my 2011 Range Rover. No compression in the right bank of the engine, so I have it stripped down. Valve cover, right upper timing cover, fuel rail and injectors removed, but I'm having a difficult time at loosening the big front pulley bolt. I bought the socket and puller kit from Atlantic British, but, boy, is that bolt tight. My 24" breaker bar with a 48" pipe over it wouldn't do it with me pulling quite hard. I have checked the numbers on the bolt and, as far as I can tell, they read 12.0. That's supposed to be a left-hand thread bolt (backwards) so I have been applying force in a clockwise direction to try to loosen it. My next plan of attack is to use my Milwaukee impact gun that is supposed to generate over 1,000 ft/lbs when loosening. But, that will require removing the radiator and a/c condenser as that impact gun is pretty large and there isn't room enough with the radiator in place. I was trying to avoid having to remove the refrigerant from the a/c system, but I guess that can't be avoided. I keep you posted on my progress, and please do the same.

 

Same thing here... Only I don't have the tool. I know someone who probably has one, will see if they'll loan me it tomorrow.

I found I can fit my husky impact in there with the radiator in place.

 

I've resigned myself to have to remove the radiator and A/C condenser, as there is no way that either my Milwaukee or my pneumatic impact gun will fit in between the socket and the radiator. Say, you don't know what size tool (bit) you need for the head bolts, do you? I watched a video by Atlantic British and Garreth shows a special head bolt tool. Only thing is, Atlantic British doesn't carry the tool, and they told me that Garreth passed away earlier this year! If I can't get the information, I plan on just ordering one 11mm head bolt and one 10mm head bolt (it apparently uses either size) and take them over to my tool supplier and see if he can find a tool to fit. I know there are several types of bolts that are similar to torx, but not exactly, and I think these bolts are one of those types.

 

Oh wow, sorry to hear he died. I was just watching his video.

I don't know about the head bolt bit question. I have a head bolt tool from a job I did on an Audi. I don't know if it's the same.

I have no idea which number is punched onto the front of my crank bolt. It is not readable. I think I'm going to just have to take a gamble and go for it in a clockwise direction.

Is yours a supercharged?

 

Mine isn't supercharged. I've gone ahead and ordered a refrigerant recovery unit that should be here today, so I can remove the radiator and condenser. I have a steady stream of other work that I can use the unit for, so it isn't a waste of money. Once I have room enough to use my powerful impact, I'll let you know how the bolt comes off. BTW, I posted a question about the tool necessary for head bolt removal on another forum and got a reply that it needs to be a T60 Torx bit that is 75mm long (about 3"). But, the cams have to come out before there is access to the head bolts, so first things first..

 

Just thinking, beebe, can't you get an inspection mirror in there so you can see the markings on the end of the bolt? Mine was pretty clear once I wiped it with a rag with a bit of cleaning solvent. The markings are raised, so even if there is corrosion, some scotch brite or something like that should be able to reveal the number. If there just is no way that you can see the number, I would carefully try some force in both directions. If my NA is a left-handed thread, a supercharged engine might be a right-handed thread.

 

Here is the bolt head. I just can't read it. It's like it just wasn't stamped hard enough.

 

Yeah, that's a tough one. I think it looks different than mine, so I would proceed that it might be standard right hand threads rather than left hand (backwards) thread. I'll snap a picture of mine but I likely won't be in my shop until tomorrow. Do you have a puller to remove the hub once the bolt is out? I have already removed the ring of torx-head bolts and the two pulleys come right off of a central cast iron hub. It looks to me that with the pulleys removed, the central hub might be a good candidate for a typical universal puller if you don't have the special land rover puller. But, then again, I drank the Kool-Aid as I bought a comprehensive set of LR tools and it includes the puller/installer for the front pulley.