I don't have the official puller. I have a generic one I may be able to make work. Since this was taken apart for timing chain job recently it may come off more easily than most.

 

Okay, got the radiator and the AC condenser out (the recovery machine was really slick for removing the refrigerant, but the radiator took a lot of scheming to figure out how to remove the ductwork and get it out). And then, I attacked the bolt with my impact gun. Turning it clockwise (my bolt says 12.9) the impact gun hammered away for a minute or two and then the bolt started turning slowly. Then, it sped up and came out! I attached the puller, and surprisingly, the hub pulled off fairly easily. There was a note in with the puller saying that if you didn't heat up the hub, you would break the tool trying to remove it. But the Atlantic British video did not mention heating up the hub, so I thought that I would try it without heating and just not use too much force if it didn't want to budge. Well, I'm glad I tried it as it just came off as it should.

 

Nice work! My generic puller worked - it came off easily enough. Both heads are at the shop now. Awaiting new valves to show up for one head.

 

Congrats on removing the pulley and balancer. Mine really wasn't that hard. The hard part was getting everything out of the way. Like you, I have no compression on one bank. But, I'm not sure if I'm going to pull the heads on both sides. I'll see how hard it is after I pull the problem head and decide if I want to pull the head on the "good" side. In any event, I'll replace the timing chains, ramps, and tensioners on both sides.

 

Mine is ALMOST back together. May be ready for first start on Sunday. I'm currently fighting with remounting the power steering pump. How's yours coming along? It's been a while. Perhaps you're long done with yours? Did it work?

 

Well Beebe, no mine isn't back together yet. I wound up pulling both heads and found that there was quite a bit of coolant in the combustion chambers of the side that still had compression. I bought a new Starrett straight edge and measured a whopping .017" of warp on both heads and about .008" of warp across the top of each deck of the block. Not good! And, worse yet, when I installed the cams with the heads on the bench, they would bind up when the caps were tightened due to the bearing saddles no longer being true. So, I looked for some used heads, but couldn't find any. I also took my heads to a cylinder head specialist that has the heat/pressure equipment for straightening OHC heads, but after examining and measuring them, they felt they were not good candidates for their process. I briefly considered buying brand new heads, but I would still have to have disassembled the block to have it machined flat again, and there is always the possibility that one or more of the cylinders are out of round. So, I have purchased a used engine. My GF's brother has a friend of many decades who his entire family has been in the used auto parts business. They located a 2010 Jag XF with only 56,000 miles that had been in a rear end collision, and that is the engine I bought. There are a couple of things to swap over from the Range Rover engine (oil pan, front balancer, throttle body) but it looks doable. So, now to get the old block out of the rig and get the new engine in!

 

Ouch! sounds like it overheated I guess. Sorry you went through all that. What a pain. I've just got to change fluids in mine and I'm going to see if I was successful soon. Hopefully this afternoon.

 

Yeah, the overheating appears to have been quite serious. I bought the Rover from a family member and it failed in the middle of a long trip. I guess with the failure of the plastic water pipes, it lost quite a bit of coolant. I am for sure replacing those plastic pipes, the thermostat, water pump, and all hoses. Hopefully, this doesn't ever repeat. Best of luck to you getting yours fired up.

 

Well mine went together well, started first time, and keeps overheating. I replaced the water pump and thermostat and it still overheats. I noticed that when it overheats the radiator is cold, and the lower radiator hose is cold. So for some reason it's not flowing through the radiator. I took the radiator out, and stuck a hose on it, and it flows just fine. I'm not loosing any coolant, no dripping or spraying out anywhere. No idea what's wrong yet. Maybe an air pocket in there somewhere or something?

 

Yes, I imagine that it has to be air pockets in the system causing those kind of problems. Atlantic British has a video about bleeding air out of the cooling system. You might check that out and see if it helps. I'm still struggling to get my old engine out of mine. My problem right now is getting the half shafts popped out of the differential housing. I am reluctant to pry on the dust seal between the CV joints and the housing as I don't plan on changing the oil seals, so I instead tightened some large hose clamps around the CV joint housings to provide something to pry on. I thought it was a good idea, but I have tried all sorts of pry bars prying on the clamps, and I can't get either side popped out. I finally broke down and ordered the official tool to pop the CV joints loose. Hopefully, it will arrive soon!