a follow up:
so after you get your bags filled and truck raised



raise to the max. 18 year old oem bags

now time to find the leak, simple is best a spray bottle with soap and water.




so course the leak is at the Solenoids

So i ordered a rebuild kit for the compressor and solenoids, but they take a week. so for a temp. repair to keep the truck rolling.



high heat clear great for sealing vacuum leak or this case leaking Solenoids





empty the system of all air and layed on a couple heavy coats around the base of the Solenoids

I update after rebuilding the block. a couple more pic of that crappy EAS setup that everyone want to rip out.



looks like plenty of clearance of old OEM bags





should look crazy with GEN III bags on it





as the GEM III bags add 2 inches to the front and three to the rear

 

Deleted the HID kit the previous owner installed. Put in stock sylvania silverstar bulbs.
Installed new expansion tank, bled system. Drove it.

 

Just got back from a 220 mile trip from California to Colorado to Utah and back. Started out with a small oil leak that turned into a BIG oil leak covering the bottom of the truck. Went through 3 gallons (yes, gallons) of oil during the trip. Trying to figure out where it is leaking now....see valve cover gaskets leaking, want to change orings in oil relief valves and front main seal.

P38s definitely get a bad rap, but I have had mine for 9 years and she has never left me stranded. I swapped out my EAS after a few years as I can't afford an EAS fault on the trails. Mine started out stock and is now fully built for overlanding and exploring. It has been all through the Sierra Nevadas, Death Valley 6 times, Moab twice, Baja twice and countless other excursions. She just ticked over 150k miles on my last trip.

 

I just got back from a 2200 trip from California to Colorado thru Utah and back. Had a small oil leak when I started a big one when I was done. Went through 4 gallons (yes, gallons) of oil on the trip. Still trying to determine where it is pouring out. Power washed the engine twice to clean it up. I do see a valve cover gasket leaking which is only 2 years old after I changed my head gaskets. Going to replace the o-rings in the oil bypass valves and probably my front main seal. In 9 years of ownership and she just ticked 150k miles, she has never left a spot on the driveway. I think she is getting back at me now as there is literally a puddle...

 

She started off as a stock P38 with 89k miles. Beautiful interior and a few small coolant leaks. Over the years, I have replaced all the common P38 ****les seen on rangrovers.net and then some. But she has never left me stranded and have driven her through the Sierra Nevadas, Moab twice, Death Valley x 6, and Baja twice. Many of the 60k miles have been offroad as she only turned into my daily driver the past two year with a 4 mile commute.

A few upgrades off the top of my head: Factory winch tray, Warn 9000CE winch, bull bar, custom all aluminum radiator by Griffin radiators, custom sliders, Safety Devices roof rack, rear ladder, rear Rock Rover metal bumper with custom swingout, RTE springs, longer Doestch tech shocks, custom adjustable panhard rod, single muffler under truck

Overlanding upgrades: OverlandPros Anza 2000 4 person tent, OverlandPros Wraptor 2500 270 degree awning, ARB 50qt fridge with slider, BlueSea rear fusebox, GoalZero Yeti 400 power pack, Powerfilm 60W solar panel, Flexopwer 79W solar panel, Ham radio, Samsung Tab A 8.9 inch tablet with InReach satellite communicator for GPS and texting, rear storage area built in, USB ports

Maintenance/Issues: replaced fusebox, radiator, hoses, thermostat, fan clutch, HEVAC screen, EAS block and EAS pump rebuilt before springs conversion, heater core and o-rings, throttle body coolant gasket x 3, steering rods, tie-rods, head gaskets, front shock mounts

 

Going on a year ownership with my P38. Have fixed a ton of stuff so far and soldiering on. Recently I've been experiencing this exact issue above, just DUMPING oil. Need to power wash everything and see where it's coming from.

 

Fixed one and Bought 3 more.

 

Well, since I now own a P38 as of yesterday, I guess I should join in. It's a running, all-electrics-working (except AC display and door latch warning), clean, straight, 1998 HSE 4.6 with 193k on the clock. Only a few more recent records on it, but fresh oil change, new plugs and an entire new cooling system in the last few months, plus already been converted to coil springs. I know, I know, taking a risk by picking up something that I don't know a ton of history on (especially why a whole new radiator, water pump, hoses and thermostat were put in), but I paid $450 cash for it after a short inspection and drove it home with no issues last night. I figured for $450 for a full runner, it was too hard to turn that one down. For today, I'm putting in new pads and rotors (which it came with) and bleeding the brakes, and then changing the differential and transfer case oil. And then the real fun begins. Bought it as a camping/hunting/offroad toy (my LR2 and Dyna Glide are my DDs), so look for more updates as it gets outfitted.

 

Hello P38 owners,
Well the below 32 degree weather has hit NJ. My EAS is acting up. Its lowering itself over night and when I walk to it in the am the front of the vehicle is down while while the rear is still up at cruising height. To be fair I also have noticed while driving that the compressor comes on and off while driving. Sounds like a leak somewhere right?
Where should I start checking because it has behaved since the a new air compressor was replaced 4 years ago and all the bags were changed at 55,000 miles due to dry rot.

Any comments are always appreciated. Other than this problem this vehicle is a pleasure drive, park , and take on vacations etc.

 

Replacing rear brake pads today. Have to get in there and push the brake caliper pistons back into their homes, which requires about a 4-5" C-clamp. I only had a 3" c-clamp on me, so it made for a longer, creative repair. After rubbing the edge of the pads on the cement to create a nice chamfer on the pad, I drove around squeak-free.

-AB