Hey folks,
I have been struggling for over a month now since I did a complete brake job on my 2013 RRS. This is my 3rd brake job since I purchased the rover and had zero problems before this one. The Rover has 75K miles and this is my 3rd brake job and the first time the calipers were rebuilt (Pistons, inner seal and dust seal. Steps I went through are very straight forward for rotors and pads, but this was the first rover calipers I had done. During the rebuild process after cleaning all of the cylinders I installed the new pistons. I made sure to coat pistons and cylinder with brake fluid and the inner seal. I installed the inner seal followed by the piston with dust seal. Once the dust seal was seated I checked that the seals by pressurizing the cylinder and checked for any leaks. All 4 calipers looked good. Next I installed the rotors followed by the calipers (depressed piston completely to remove any air), pads and sensors. Once everything was installed and torqued properly I started to prep for the bleeding process. At no time did I let the reservoir go empty and I setup my power bleeder. The power bleeder is a new process for me, but I wanted to ensure my system was properly supported with constant fluid (DOT 4 LV) and set the pressure at 8-10 PSI. Once it was set I started at the Right Rear and opened the bleeder until all air was evacuated, Then closed and moved to the Left Rear, Front Right, and then Front Left. Note that I did this without the motor started and when I finished bleeding the brakes the pedal felt good, until I started it and the pedal went to the floor. I could pump it a few times, but when I held it down the pedal was soft and then went to the floor.

I have also completed the ABS Bleed procedure with my Diagnostic Tool using my power bleeder to ensure no dry reservoir. I followed the Rave manual repair procedure which has the rover running and the bleeding procedure seemed backwards as they had me start with a different sequence then I had ever used before (been working on cars for 40 years) front to rear rather than furthest to closest. We did it there way and no difference, we did it our way and no difference. I also was told to try and drive it, carefully and put some miles on it a run the braking process in a really simulation. While I could stop the rover I had to pump the brakes and I never had a firm pedal. I drove it about 6 miles.

The Rover has now been out of commission and on my lift for over a month. Based on my experience and advice from another Rover forum I also did the following
- Replaced the Master Cylinder and Power Booster
- Replaced all of the soft Brake lines front and back
I then did a complete re-bleed process and no change and I am starting to pull my hair out...And now I am questioning my caliper rebuild job so I ordered the following and will install them this week.
- I ordered a new pair of TRW Front and Rear Calipers to replace the rebuilt calipers and should have them Wed

I am also paying a brake specialist from one of the local dealerships to come by my shop and take a look and see if she can spot something I have missed.

I know this is a lot to ask, but if anyone is feeling like they could throw me a bone it would be very much appreciated.

Thanks for any help...

Peterin


I also installed Johnson 2.5" lift rods and new front air struts and shocks. Before the brake job, and it was going so good...

 

hi, I hope you have solved it, I have a 2021 defender, this uses a particular service procedure for bleeding brakes.
you have to put the abs pump in service position with jlr pathfinder, then you have to pump with the pedal as well as putting pressure on the brake circuit.
If you do not open the valves in the pump with the service position, the upper part of the system will empty. To check the remanufactured calipers you should use the pathfider function, search for air and leaks.
the dealer can definitely find the problem for you.

marco

 

This probably isn't it given your experience, but I've seen some silly mistakes in my days. You do have all the calipers on the correct side right, with the bleeder screws facing up? If they are facing down you never fully fill the caliper and get the exact condition you're describing.

 

Hey Guys, thanks for getting back to me. Wasn't going to admit this, but the Calipers were upside down, geez. I looked at the manually many times trying to see if I missed anything and my son-in-law came over and was looking and noticed the bleed screws in the wrong position... Anyway once the the calipers were put on correctly it work great and the brakes function wonderfully.

One other issue I had was trying to install 275/55R20 AT and they rubbed pretty bad on all four tires. So I was able to swap them out for 265/50/R20 which provided plenty of clearance. Drivability has improved dramatically...

Again than you for the help!