Fuel Pump failure replacement my experience
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Fuel Pump failure replacement my experience
Hi All new here but wanted to give a heads up from my experience with my 2006 Sport 4.2 supercharged jag motor. 120k
Fuel pump went in my driveway luckily. thought it was everything from battery , to computers, to key immobilizer, but got it to run on starting fluid so there was the diagnosis. There is no tap or valve to test fuel pressure.
The heads up is - my truck was suffering from a rough idle in gear for a while, and gave a hard start start no start on rare occasions, maybe 3 times in 8 months. Idle is smooth now, so that might be some early warning signs , hope this helps someone.
notes from doing the job
-tank "strap" or sheild that holds tank is was rotted through had to get that. Thought I would replace fuel gauge float/ meter, there are two. The one deeper in the tank is impossible to get to so dont bother buying it unless youve done it before / many times/ are a LR tech . I replaced the one near the access hole which was difficult enough.
-Be careful with the ring that holds the access cover on , its plastic brittle, and not available.
- you are removing the two fuel lines front the front of the tank to the engine , and two vapor lines that go over the rear to the canister above spare, so you have to take spare out(I hear there are 2 versions one with 3 vapor lines also) this is a pain to fish out and in again. Some lines are squeeze, others the color clip must be backed out and then a standard fuel line disconnect tool for the forward fuel line to the engine.
-Last pain was the tank access cover , you need to get a new one for two reasons. the chances of you breaking off one of the inlets is almost certain, and two it comes with a new clip and o-rings on a plug included with the new cover. these are for the vapor or return line that goes to the back of the tank. I dont know what the heck kind of tool would get this out but I dont have one. Its 4 tabs that have to be pushed in. the old one was impossible, so I broke the pieces of the old cover tha holds that clip in to get the line out. On the new one to get the plug out, I was able to use a small screwdriver and push one tab at a time to rock it out. then used the new supplied o-rings(three colors) from the plug and put those on the old line. If theres a tool I would buy it if you can get it
- have to jack it as high as you can get it, four jack stands
- The wiring on my was a mess. I sent a pic to the dealers parts department who I get my parts from , and said its an "overlay " harness. I assume this is something to do with a mentioned "2010 update" there are cut, spliced and shrink tubed connections, and two abandoned or removed wires from the clip at the tank then I saw the same at a block on top of the drivers rear frame rail after the spare was removed. So check those is they look crappy.
Part numbers used
WGI500090 Sending Unit
LR006778 Fuel Pump Assembly Gasket
WGC500130 Fuel Pump Housing
WFN500021 Tank Strap
WGS500012 Fuel Pump Assembly
Fuel pump went in my driveway luckily. thought it was everything from battery , to computers, to key immobilizer, but got it to run on starting fluid so there was the diagnosis. There is no tap or valve to test fuel pressure.
The heads up is - my truck was suffering from a rough idle in gear for a while, and gave a hard start start no start on rare occasions, maybe 3 times in 8 months. Idle is smooth now, so that might be some early warning signs , hope this helps someone.
notes from doing the job
-tank "strap" or sheild that holds tank is was rotted through had to get that. Thought I would replace fuel gauge float/ meter, there are two. The one deeper in the tank is impossible to get to so dont bother buying it unless youve done it before / many times/ are a LR tech . I replaced the one near the access hole which was difficult enough.
-Be careful with the ring that holds the access cover on , its plastic brittle, and not available.
- you are removing the two fuel lines front the front of the tank to the engine , and two vapor lines that go over the rear to the canister above spare, so you have to take spare out(I hear there are 2 versions one with 3 vapor lines also) this is a pain to fish out and in again. Some lines are squeeze, others the color clip must be backed out and then a standard fuel line disconnect tool for the forward fuel line to the engine.
-Last pain was the tank access cover , you need to get a new one for two reasons. the chances of you breaking off one of the inlets is almost certain, and two it comes with a new clip and o-rings on a plug included with the new cover. these are for the vapor or return line that goes to the back of the tank. I dont know what the heck kind of tool would get this out but I dont have one. Its 4 tabs that have to be pushed in. the old one was impossible, so I broke the pieces of the old cover tha holds that clip in to get the line out. On the new one to get the plug out, I was able to use a small screwdriver and push one tab at a time to rock it out. then used the new supplied o-rings(three colors) from the plug and put those on the old line. If theres a tool I would buy it if you can get it
- have to jack it as high as you can get it, four jack stands
- The wiring on my was a mess. I sent a pic to the dealers parts department who I get my parts from , and said its an "overlay " harness. I assume this is something to do with a mentioned "2010 update" there are cut, spliced and shrink tubed connections, and two abandoned or removed wires from the clip at the tank then I saw the same at a block on top of the drivers rear frame rail after the spare was removed. So check those is they look crappy.
Part numbers used
WGI500090 Sending Unit
LR006778 Fuel Pump Assembly Gasket
WGC500130 Fuel Pump Housing
WFN500021 Tank Strap
WGS500012 Fuel Pump Assembly
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