Hi,


I have this 2016 Range Rover 90k mile, and out of warranty. Therefore, I am trying to resolve this on my own without spending a fortune at the dealer.

Every time I have the truck sitting in the sun for three hours or so when it's time to start it, (around 1 or 2 pm) there's a hesitation on starting. It takes about 3 seconds more than usual to start, sounds like a bad starter or bad fuel pump.

I think it is a bad fuel pump ( 1 of the 2) because the error before that was the low-pressure fuel pump.

The RRS came with 2 fuel pumps. I have no idea, which is the low-pressure fuel pump. I would like to change both fuel pumps if I can find the part numbers.

However, if someone has the solution for these two error codes, I would be grateful for the help.

 

These motors are pretty bullet proof aside from two major (but fixable) flaws:

1. Coolant crossover pipes burst unexpectedly (has this happened to you yet?)
2. The fuel injectors foul due to this being a GDI engine. The local Land Rover dealer actually prescribes running a can of BG44K as a regular service every 6 months to prevent this. Anyway, I wouldn't rule out your injectors. Run some fuel system cleaner a few times to see if that helps. Worst case, it doesn't solve your issue specifically but prevents some others. And it's a low cost start to the troubleshooting process.

 

This is where diagnostics come into play. You actually have three pumps: Low pressure pump mounted in the tank and two high pressure pumps (HPFP) mounted on the side of the block.
HPFP usually are the cause for extended cranks and fault codes, but every time a tech just assumes it needs HPFP and doesn't test, it ends up being the low pressure pump.
The low pressure pumps generates about 70-80 PSI and feeds the HPFPs fuel, they in turn generate a few thousand PSI to feed the injectors. HPFP can't do their job if they don't have any fuel.
With a scantool and the engine having sat overnight, look at live fuel pressure data as you turn the car on, but DO NOT CRANK. HPFP only work when engine is rotating. So with KEOE, the rail sensors will read low pressure pump, should be around 70-80 PSI. If you can't generate this, you either have a bad low pressure pump or a leaking injector. Typically a leaking injector will also induce rich faults or even misfire as a single cylinder becomes flooded.
If low pressure is good, then crank and watch what rail pressure sensor does. It should go up considerably. I'm not at work, so I don't have my notes in front of me, but I think cold start-high idle should generate over 2,000 PSI.
Factory diagnostics (SDD) has a test plan to isolate a faulty HPFP, but if I have come to the point where I"m sure its one of them, I just do them both. It seems silly to do the labor to access them, to not just do the other considering how inexpensive the pump is and the frequency that they fail. You will also want to remove the tappet down inside to inspect for damage. Occasionally they wear out and need replaced as well.
One last thing that needs checked is fuel pump camshaft timing. We really don't see this too much, but we have the tool to check it just to be sure before we sell pumps. The HPFP is driven by its own shaft, chain driven off the crank. It has to be timed correctly to generate pressure when its needed, otherwise the pressure will be low.

 

I remembered that I used the BG44K and it worked. They now have the Platinum BG44K which costs about $25 to $30. I got 2 for $40 and it seems to work. I'm going to use it every 3 months.
I have to get an Extended Warranty for this car. Every time I'm driving this car, It feels as if I am holding crystal glassware while my hand is wet with dish soap.

Thank you guys for taking the time.

 

hey Techniker, I noticed at the end of this post you mentioned Hpfp timing. I just did a head gasket job on my ‘14 LR4 and it’s throwing low fuel rail pressure codes. Could I have messed up that timing? Nothing in my manual mentioned it since I didn’t touch that chain.

thx in advance!