New to me 1970 Santana 88
#1
New to me 1970 Santana 88
Hi,
Thought I would introduce myself since I am sure I will have many questions for this group. I recently purchased a 1970 Santana 88. I have owned and restored many European Cars, mostly Porsche and Jaguar, but this is my first Land Rover. I have very little information on its history other than the person I bought it from purchased it in Bogota Columbia, had it ¨restored¨ there and imported it to the US.
I am still going through it and learning about Land Rovers in general.
The Good:
-Starts, runs, and drives
-Chassis seems to be in good shape and mostly rust free
-looks good from 10´ away
The not so good:
-Brakes are almost non-existent and the brake lights do not function (I am currently in the process of replacing the brakes all around)
-According to the workshop manual there are 29 places that could leak. Luckily I think I only have leaks from about 25 of them, haha
-Coolant is brown (rusty) but doesn't show signs of oil intrusion. It´s clearing up after a few flushes
-Bogs and sometimes dies when I first hit the throttle, but only when the cold start is off. When pulled on there it is very smooth and responsive.
-Looks like it has a Weber carb and has an alternator added.
-There is no hose connected to the vacuum advance on the distributor. Not sure if it´s required or where it should connect
-There is much much more but this is most of what I have gone through so far
Here are a few pics. Let me know if you see anything interesting or problematic in them. I will save my questions, if I can find them in the search, for separate posts
Thought I would introduce myself since I am sure I will have many questions for this group. I recently purchased a 1970 Santana 88. I have owned and restored many European Cars, mostly Porsche and Jaguar, but this is my first Land Rover. I have very little information on its history other than the person I bought it from purchased it in Bogota Columbia, had it ¨restored¨ there and imported it to the US.
I am still going through it and learning about Land Rovers in general.
The Good:
-Starts, runs, and drives
-Chassis seems to be in good shape and mostly rust free
-looks good from 10´ away
The not so good:
-Brakes are almost non-existent and the brake lights do not function (I am currently in the process of replacing the brakes all around)
-According to the workshop manual there are 29 places that could leak. Luckily I think I only have leaks from about 25 of them, haha
-Coolant is brown (rusty) but doesn't show signs of oil intrusion. It´s clearing up after a few flushes
-Bogs and sometimes dies when I first hit the throttle, but only when the cold start is off. When pulled on there it is very smooth and responsive.
-Looks like it has a Weber carb and has an alternator added.
-There is no hose connected to the vacuum advance on the distributor. Not sure if it´s required or where it should connect
-There is much much more but this is most of what I have gone through so far
Here are a few pics. Let me know if you see anything interesting or problematic in them. I will save my questions, if I can find them in the search, for separate posts
#3
If the brakes are like my 2A, they are very difficult to bleed using the normal method. What I found to be very successful was to pressurize the top of the reservoir with maybe 5 psi of air. I did this by turning my air compressor regulator down, then using an air blaster with a rubber hose at the tip, putting the air blaster on the vent hole at the top of the reservoir. I loosened a bleeder fitting one wheel at a time, with a hose to a container to catch the fluid, then pressurized the reservoir for 10-20 seconds, making sure not to empty the reservoir.
My 2A had a vacuum line to the distributor.
My 2A had a vacuum line to the distributor.
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Richard Gallant
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10-22-2019 05:41 PM