The LR3 is coming down in price so lets get together some inexpensive mods and simple fixes going.

I paid $7,500 for my LR3 with no issues and I treat it as such.

Most recently smashing my tailight and denting my rear quarter off road). I'll update this thread once I have complete pictures but a $20 harbor freight paint gun, bondo gold, a can of land rover tonga green, cheap clearcoat and she's good as new. I could have gotten the same results using touch up rattle cans online.

Mod 1

I didn't have trunk mats and having the dog get in and out was making my life difficult. While at Harbor freight for $10 I picked up "anti fatigue foam mat" and it fit almost perfectly.





Mod 2
Onboard air.
(this is starting to sound like a Harbor freight ad)
Picked up a 150psi harbor freight compressor, ran zip ties and even mounted it with zip ties(wasn't sure about mounting location). I picked up the compressor for $50 and it puts out plenty of air but the MasterFlow MF-1050 is better for the same price I just didn't want to wait for shipping. https://www.amazon.com/Master-Flow-M...ami+compressor

Mod 3

This one has been heavily requested. I adapted a $50 harbor freight universal winch mount(made for jeeps) to work as a hidden mount on the LR3.

I've tried and tried to explain it with words(and failed) so I made a video. The video is unedited, made on a whim and without removing the bumper(which I don't plan on doing for a video) still hard to explain.






"Fixes or cheap alternative parts"

Ford Mercon SP is the same as ZF Lifeguard 6 transmission fluid. Why does it matter? It's about 1/10th the cost and available local.

How about Compressor "refresh" kit for $68?



https://www.amazon.com/ROVER-DISCOVE...lr3+compressor


Lets keep this thing going!

 

So you are only holding the winch plate in with 2 grade 8 bolts? I mean yeah they are good for 150,000 psi each but.......

Good ideas though

I recommend a polished aluminum fair lead and synthetic line , removes a lot of weight

On the hf mats they can be cut backwards so be sure they are all cut same the direction from pack to pack

I do need a good compressor keep burning them out airing up

 

Yeah, knowing how heavy my LR3 is and having seen the amount of force generated by my 12.5k winch, I'd be a little wary of that mount.

That being said, to add to the thread:

1. Pep Boys sells the Masterflow 1050 compressor for $60 - They usually have a coupon as well, so I just picked one up two days ago for $42+tax (30% coupon).

2. Brake fluid - I've found Pentosin DOT4 to be the most universally available and affordable brake fluid that meets LR specs. For some reason, the Pentosin website recommends their Super DOT4 fluid for all LR vehicles, but it doesn't meet spec. The DOT4 LV (low viscosity) meets the ISO4925 Class 6 spec that LR calls for. I've used it for the past 3 years and it works great.

3. Power steering fluid - I use ACDelco Cold Climate Power Steering Fluid, which I believe is the same as the LR fluid. It's cheaper and available at any GM dealer or via Amazon. $25 or so for 32 oz container. I need two to flush my PS system.

4. For those with an e-locker rear diff, you can use liquid silver (ACDelco 92184900) as your diff fluid rather than the liquid gold that LR sells. Same stuff with the same Carbon Mod+ additive. $34/liter or so on Amazon.

5. I added some SlipDoctors Anti-Slip Grip Tape to my rock sliders make standing on them to access the roof rack safer. This is after I slipped off them and almost dislocated my shoulder over the rear door. Also, my daughter has slipped off them before. This stuff has great traction and seems to adhere to the metal very well... no pulling up at all despite tons of rain and tons of use.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

6. If you've broken anything plastic, such as the tabs on your grille or your rear bumper, this stuff is expensive, but works magic - 3M 04247 Super Fast Plastic Repair. They make a smaller 50ml size that's the same thing (04747 I think), but cheaper. Also, you probably should buy the 3M adhesion promoter. Even a 50ml tube should last for quite a few repairs depending how the size of the crack. It's amazing stuff and can be sanded/ground down after it dries. Seems expensive, but compared to replacing any plastic part on the LR3, it's extremely cheap.

7. Engine oil - pay attention to rebates. Both Mobil 1 and Pennzoil Ultra have had some great rebates going on recently... to the point where you could get 5 quart jugs of synthetic oil for between $10-15 dollars (multiple quantities allowed per rebate).

I'm sure I have some more "inexpensive" (very relative term) mods... will post when I think of them.

 

Yeah I just switched to castrol synthetic from castrol Dino, starting next change I may go Mobil 1 since cheap at Walmart, my brothers used it for years and no issues

 

I don't want to start an oil discussion, but I've used Mobil1 in my Audi from the first oil change at 1,500 miles up to the 186,000 miles it has now. No engine problems at all. I also use it on all the other cars and the motorcycle. Not to say that other oils wouldn't do just as well. I think all the synthetics are probably great.
However, I do think that there are significant benefits to synthetic over Dino. Two of the major ones are time and $$$. Synthetic seems more expensive at first, but when you take into account that you only need to do 1 oil change for every 3 Dino oil changes, it quickly becomes cheaper and saves you a bunch of time!

 

It's not the best setup but its been tested pretty hard.

I'd rate it for the average wheeler.. I pulled a stump with it today that was in the way of a local trail that left a 4' hole behind. That being said i'm usually pretty cautious and its only to "get you out of reasonable trouble" not "Pull me up this mountain, at a sideways angle, and over rocks.

Basically it's perfectly capable of getting you unstuck the worst mud you can imagine(been there).

All that being said my air compressor location is a bust.. The engine bay just produces too much heat to have it in there... I removed it on the trail today and aired up old school(aligator clips and not "onboard")

 

I use rotella T6 synthetic in every vehicle I own(2 lux cars, A dual sport motorcycle and my LR3(and countless others over the years). Cheap and up to the job(and then some).

 

In tech section there's a list of oils comparable to rover fluids to save u money

 

2008 ford focus brake switch is the exact same part and half the price.

 

Well, just discovered this "alternate parts" thread and thought I'd add the engine for the LR3 4.0L Cologne V6 2005 - 2009, can be replaced with a Ford Cologne 4.0L V6 (ours was from a 2008 Ranger 4X4), except that the Land Rover (LR) LR3 engine block has been drilled and tapped to only fit the LR engine mounts. We manufactured a custom engine mount for the driver's side and modified the LR mount on the passenger side, plus drilled and tapped a hole for the engine oil temperature sensor on the driver's side of the engine "girdle" (aluminum upper oil pan) and had to custom mount the driver's side engine knock sensor. Other than that, bolt on all the LR3 parts off the dead engine and "Bob's your uncle"! Oh... there is one other thing... To prevent the inevitable "timing chain cassette failure" on the Cologne 4.0L V6 engine, use some kind of pre-oiler system... As useless fact # 78 I'd also add that many folks say that the Ford 6R60 transmission rebuild kit is the same as the ZF6HP26X one, but I can't verify that yet as I have not tried to rebuild my transmission. I did add Ford Mercon SP after we changed engines though, no ill effects after 3K Km of motoring, plus have changed light bulbs using non-Land Rover bulbs and no problems... (fingers crossed about everything)...