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Shims don't solve my need to run another positive wire though. Not a fan of 'hacks' either.
Lopping off the factory terminals is a hack.
Do you see the hole in the top of the POS terminal? It's threaded (M6 I think). Buy an appropriately-sized bolt and washer and attach the wire for your new circuit there. No cutting. No expensive crimper needed. That's how the cable for my winch is attached. Remember the KISS principle.
Now for my hack. I too had loose battery terminals. For years I used my Vise Grips to deform them, that is, make them slightly not round. Worked pretty well. But a few months ago when I installed the current battery I tried something else. I drilled a small hole in between the terminal and the battery post and then installed a small screw as a shim. Did it on both the POS and the NEG. The terminals don't vibrate loose any more. Yes it's a hack, but far short of cutting off the factory terminal.
Just my opinion, but if you're going to hack it this much, it's perfectly reasonable to instead replace the factory terminal, which isn't difficult or dangerous. I'm not criticizing your method because it obviously works.
Yeah, you're right, it is a hack. By hack I meant any sort of stop-gap measure. If there's a bum part, it should be replaced for longevity. I hate repairing things twice, or worrying about taking off the terminals and finding I can't tighten them back on later.
I also like the idea of mil-spec so I can angle the cables better. The battery dimensions have to be pretty precise (not only dimensions, but also -/+ posts location) for the factory terminals. I bought an optima and had to return it because of the location of the posts. Then I exchanged it for a regular battery, but 7.5" is too wide (my fault, should have measured... it fits, but the mount won't fit over it).
Attached drawing of proper battery dimensions
I'm going to go for it. Will report back
Last edited by Jeff Blake; Jun 7, 2016 at 11:46 AM.
If current terminals in otherwise good condition may be best to use shims.
Exactly what I did. I had a flashing alternator light that I chased around for weeks, and could not figure out what it was. One of the forum members suggested checking my ground connections. I never could get the terminals to quite tighten all the way down. Shimmed the posts and tightened it up. No alternator light, no problems.
I bit the bullet on the hydraulic crimper. Makes a world of difference. Even though I'm only going to be using them a few times... very much worth the $50. Welding cable is also amazing. Waiting on the larger lugs (ancor marine tinned copper) to do the install.
job done. ended up making a new earth cable out of 2/0 gauge welding cable. Man, the bolt for the cable on the starter/block was really on there. Took 4+ hours of PB plaster, heat gun, vice grips, dremel, and sockets to get it off. Happy with the result. Now on to finishing my fuse panel and coolant hose changeover.
some final tips:
use a wire brush to scrape off any green residue on the cables after stripping. I had quite a bit on both positive cables
remember to check the position of the lug before crimping. You don't want to have to twist the cables to get it onto the terminal
hydraulic 10 ton crimper and welding cable is great stuff
1/0 lugs for both positive cables
Last edited by Jeff Blake; Jun 13, 2016 at 12:39 AM.
