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Two different sounds:
1. Highlighted at the beginning, sounds like the exhaust. Much louder than normal, don't know for sure if it's exhaust, just guessing.
2. That repetitive sound... Almost like a tapping. Any ideas?

 

For what it is worth
Sound 1: Leaky exhaust, could be at the gasket between the manifold and Y pipe.
Sound 2: Is possibly a stuck/ ticking lifter. If the sound goes away when you increase the RPM's from idle to about 800 that may be it. I have the same issue, and it occurs when the engine temp is above 170. I took it to a local mechanic who suggested running STP oil treatment for 500 miles then changing the oil. He also suggested using Motor Medic Engine Flush and One quart of Rislone as a substitute for 1 QT of oil.
Oil is always the greatest debate on this forum, but I use shell Rotella 15-40.

 

Thanks for the feedback, I'll check out if the tapping stays with increased RPM's. I think it does but I need to double check.

The exhaust though, that just suddenly popped up out of nowhere. I did a valve cover gasket and spark plug and wire job, plus oil separator replacement, and that noise showed up after a few hundred miles of towing a trailer.

I've had several codes running too since that job a few days ago... System running too lean, O2 sensor circuit, pending O2 circuit slow response. Ugh. I hate working on the car and then coming out the other end with problems I didn't have before. Seems like a routine almost.

By the way I'm a Rotella 15w40 guy too for now. I spent an unreasonable amount of time researching oil (again) over the weekend, and might possibly give RP a try. Dadgum tricky industry marketing, just give me independent research to make my choice clear!

 

It is always something with these trucks isn't it? It drives me crazy that you fix one thing and another pops up. What codes are you pulling up now in terms of the O2 sensor? Did you replace the intake manifold gasket when you did the valve covers? I understand that you can also get O2 related codes with the inject O rings going bad. If you knocked into one of them it might be the reason for the codes. Another thing might be that you did not torque down the Intake manifold properly. Check the RAVE for the specs and sequence. AB also has a video that talks about replacing the valve cover gaskets.
I have never pulled a trailer with my 04 D2 so I don't know what kind of strain this might put on the engine.

 

Yeah, you fix one thing and something else goes wrong. Here's a theory I developed 40 years ago with my '65 Mustang. Keep fixing things until something goes wrong that you can live with. Don't fix it and nothing else will go wrong! Whadya think?

 

Okay, following your logic: if the brakes feel a little mushy I should:
A) Not worry about even thought I go down a massive hill every day that ends at a major intersection.
B) subscribe to the old saying "God is my co-pilot"
C) Be Alfred E. Neuman- "what me worry"
D) Auction one of my Kidneys on Ebay for the funds to pay for a full brake job

Remember class, there are no right or wrong answers on this quiz

 

That theory is precisely why my driver's side rear door lock remains unfixed!

 

You guys are too funny.

Matt, the O2 codes actually seemed to have gone away for now, after I JB Plasticwelded the air hose/boot connection between the one coming off the air filter box and the filter element. Those worthless plastic clamps had all broken off, so it was really loose and that may have been causing my codes, I think, including a system too lean code. But I still have vacuum line codes pending, the P1412 and P1415.

Could a fuel/air mixture that's too lean cause exhaust problems?

Haven't noticed the tapping the last couple days by the way, maybe that just went away...

 

za105- It is possible that your JB Weld fix helped eliminate your lean codes. Unwanted air being drawn in or leaks will definitely throw codes.
Your 1412 & 1415 codes are for the secondary air injection system(SAI). those are those silver "mushrooms" that are on each side of the valve covers. Those plastic lines get very brittle over time and may break. You might not know they are broken as they have the plastic tubing covering them. Check the connections into the SAI valves and try and trace them back to the SAI pump and the vacuum pump which is located on the passenger side of the engine compartment between the firewall and the expansion tank. I was able to buy a new set for a reasonable price from a stealership that had them collecting dust on their parts shelf. I also replace the main SAI hose because i stuck one of my meathooks between it and the firewall breaking it. That part was not cheap.
Good luck.
You can probably replace your airfilter box assembly by contacting Paul Grant, he parts out rovers and is awesome.
paulgrant@mac.com

 

I found the source of the exhaust noise!





A hole in the exhaust pipe, likely caused over the weekend while I was hauling that big work trailer a thousand miles, moving my family. You can see that screw must have punctured it. I'm sure glad it's nothing more than a hole, it seems. I think I can have a welding shop fix that for cheap.

Found the solution on an EricTheCarGuy YouTube video on identifying exhaust leaks. Love that guy. Took me literally one minute to find the hole.