Waiting to hear back from the shop.

Is it possible to have a third party perform some sort of test to ensure that the o-rings are in there? Would an ultrasonic test do it?

Here's murphy's law at work... I spent some time airing out the rover to bring the moisture down. Found a bit of molding on the seatbelts and rear seat edges. I asked myself, why is there so much moisture in here?? Well, I look up to the roof and see a big ol wet spot at the rear of the roof - great, the sunroof must be leaking. Best part - this wet spot was DIRECTLY above the area where I kept my block stored in the cargo area. So it was dripping water all over the block. Put a tarp over the roof for now. Looks like tearing out the headliner and painting is in my near future.

 

Damn another project. When it rains it pours. Good luck and hope all turns out well with your engine and D2.
......

 

I hate it when threads get hijacked but since it was the OP who brought up the new topic here I go.

In my opinion painting the headliner is the only way to go. Use denatured alcohol to clean the off the foam and adhesive residue. Go over it one more time to be thorough, then let it dry and roll on a decent primer (I used Kilz). After that put on two coats of a good exterior latex house paint and it'll be great.

I did this nearly six years ago and I have been very, very happy with it. The best news is that it will never sag again. Some say "Why paint when installing new fabric is so easy?" The answer is that painting is a better solution.

My writeup on Dweb is linked below and the label from the paint can for my Bahama Beige match is shown.

D2 Headliner - Lessons Learned

 

Hi, the surface rust is easily fixed by yourself but the possible omission of the O rings is not and as Richard Turner states the liners will distort on removal so new liners are required. In truth the crank and block should have been delivered with machine oil sprayed on them and the crank wrapped in oily waxed paper and possible even the block or at least the top surfaces and bores. IMO take the lot back and let the clean it all up and oil it properly and also fit new liners and O rings. I know Richard Turner reasonably well and he is well known and highly respected in the engine and tuning industry and is the DB's at his game.

 

Those are good points... seems like oiling the parts on delivery should be common practice. The machinist did mention to assemble pistons into the bores dry (no oil on rings, pistons, or bores) whereas the manual says to lightly oil.

If the re-used liners measure within the ovality tolerances, are they okay? Or is there some crazy metallurgy business happening that cannot be measured? This is going back to my point that my shop is unwilling to pay for new liners unless they measure out of round.

 

Jeff, as I mentioned b4 there is no way to take liners out & then put them back in & call it the day, of course they will need remachining,! Because they will be out of alignment after being reinstalled,,, , after remachining the bores to line them up again (IF YOU GET LUCKY it might end up on the max allowed inside bore diameter , which I doubt it),,, & you will end up with a loose bore, but that isn't the bigger problem,
The bigger problem is after they put same liners back into block, liners will not be as tight as they were b4 coming out, (or they are supposed to be), that's the reason I said ask them "WHAT IF" b4 they do anything, and don't accept "LETS SEE WHAT HAPPENS FIRST" and we will talk about it later...
About lubing the parts b4 assembly, of course you need to lube pistons & rings & everything else as you are putting them together,!! I don't know (& don't understand) why they are telling you otherwise.

 

I know it's easy for us that are not in your situation tell you to do this or do that,,,,,
But in reality it will be very hard to make machine shop buy you new liners, specially that they think they have done a good job to begin with, try to reason with them as much as you possibly can, & negotiate what if liners have to be bored out too much after reinstal,? What if they didn't fit the block as tight as they are supposed to,,, And get an answer b4 they start, depending on answer you can make better decision on what you want them to do next, that might even make them rethink what they should do,

 

They say not to oil the rings or bores because it will cause the rings to spin around so that the gaps aren't in the right places anymore. Don't want a smoker either. They say some light WD-40 only.

Talked with the machinist again today. He's going to proceed with pulling out the sleeves and putting the o-rings in. He's saying, since the sleeves are marked as to where they go (exactly where they were) the chance of out of round is zero. I brought up concern about looseness, he says the fit will be exactly the same, and because of the flanged sleeve it will stay in place anyway.

After some clarification, he's done 40 of these sleeve jobs total. So he probably hasn't seen it all like Turner has. He admits that he did not see the instruction sheet or o-rings in the shipment so did not fit them (I sure hope the instructions are the same for Darton as they are for LA sleeves...)

If the sleeves measure out of round (I will check myself, and take it to a third party to confirm if I deem it out of round) and go from there. It's the best deal I can get at the moment. I don't want to pony up $600 for new sleeves if they are not necessary. At some point I have to put some faith and trust in the machinist and let go.

If they are out of round like everyone seems to be so sure that will happen, then they will buy new sleeves.

 

Hi hope everything works out for the best. Keep us posted with progress.
Just so you know, rings don't stay in same position after starting engine, they keep rotating, & they always have a little blow-by (gaps lined up or not), in every engine, a little less in a fresh engine with tighter rings, and a little more in worn out ones, (why do you think engine oil gets dark & contaminated).

 

Picking it up in a few hours. The machinist says the o-rings went in perfectly and the cylinders are still in-round. I guess liners can be used again...we shall see

The crank was polished. Minor rust pitting on 7 & 8 rod journals, but he said it's perfectly fine so I'll leave it at that.

First order of business will be to bore gauge each cylinder myself. I've prepared an excel worksheet to keep track. preview:




Eager to get started on the rebuild. I plan to record videos of the process and release them here... in the hopes that someone will point out my errors before I tuck her back in