LMAO. You seem to have a real beef with my mechanic. Why dont you ask ArmyRover about this shady mechanics creditientials... Seeing how they worked on afew project trucks together and he actually owns his own shop... Meanwhile a guy who depends on second hand parts for his build and works out of a driveway is apparently on expert on diagnosing misfires among many other things? WTF?

Turners response was more a general statement than relevent recommendations. If the engine, flywheel or other componets were damaged during the engine swap as Turner suggested... my truck would not be running well right now.... Or at all for that matter. She shifts smoothly into all gears, rides comfortably in town and has no trouble doing 65mph on the highway. No ticking, cracking, thumping or grinding noises. No burning smells. No other trouble codes. No visible oil or coolant leaks. So that pretty much rules out improper installation of the new Turner block by my mechanic.

Its most obviously an electrical issue somewhere in the ignition system. If you read all my posts you would have learned that "I" replaced plugs, wires and coils earlier this year before recently replacing the injectors and still no resolve on the misfires. The only thing I have not replaced is the MAF sensor. If the sensor is NOT the culprit than "I"ll" replace the wires one more time- but with genuine. Magnecor wires do not offer any noticeable improvements over oem wires and Ive already delt with a defective set. Perhaps there is truth and reasin behind the statement "always use genuine parts".

 

Actually the entire air induction assembly is different on late model D2's. I could have tried swapping over the entire air duct assembly but decided aginst it. Ill just wait for the used maf from Robert Booth. If the MAF is the problem then Ill purchase a genuine sensor from John Craddock.

 

If it was wasn't for guys "depending on second hand parts and working out of a driveway" there would be far fewer Discos running than there are now... Might want to climb down off your high horse a little there.

Not everyone has endless pots of money to throw at parts to keep these trucks running. I've been there, literally pi$$ed thousands of dollars into having a mechanic look after an L322 Range Rover. Let's just say I learnt my lesson and am now more than happy to sources good, used parts where needed, and install them on the driveway!

 

If your in a bind or its something none mechanical/electrical than I can understand. But in the end new genuine parts are the best bet and will last alot longer than a second hand part. I certainly dont have endless money but I do well to take care of my truck when problems arise. Take the sai and ace systems for example. Alot of folks decide to have the system bypassed instead of spending the time diagnoising and fixing the fault in the system correctly. Or they will ignore check engine faults for years. Then they complain moan and groan when their vehicle has a seriouse failure....

In my opinion if your going to build up a vehicle be it full restoration, expedition rig, or just making a vehicke mechanically sound then you are better off using new parts that are guaranteed to last, backed with a warranety and less likely to fail down the road weeks later. Piece of mind and longevity. Ive learned the hard way that you get what you pay for. Thus I have decided to use genuine parts from now on with rare exceptions (driveshaft etc). If my maf sensor ends up being the problem then Im throwing in a new genuine unit.

Im also not criticizing anyone who makes a living selling used parts. And I appreciate Robert Booths willingness to help me out by letting me borrow a sensor for afew days.

 

I have no beef with your mechanic. I was simply stating its not surprising he seemed skeptical when Turner suggested a problem with the install.

I support 3 kids and a wife that doesn't work and homeschools them. I pay the mortgage, car payment, and everything else. And yet here is some sawed off white supremacist living out of his truck busting my ***** about buying used Rover parts on occasion to keep his multiple Rovers on the road. That's rich!!!!

If you don't want people's advice about your issues stop posting about them. Stick to telling us how awesome you are at getting stuck in the parking lot at Winter Romp.

 

Holy cow this is an entertaining thread.

I suspect TRIARII is very, very close to having a perfectly running rover. I have high hopes for that MAF swap. I made my own intake hose with fancy ebay silicon and aluminum parts (guided by Alex_M) and have used it on both 4.0 and 4.6 engines with equal success. The stock hose from my 4.6 donor is larger diameter and needlessly complicated, in my opinion, so I chopped it up for the homemade one (which terminates in a large cone fikter, right in front of the MAF).

I am still enthralled with the Alaska angle. I have dreamt of driving my rover to and in Alaska. Sadly, I don't think it would get there (from Texas), except maybe on a trailer.

 

Getting into older cars where "genuine" parts are no longer available cured me of the "must be new to be reliable" syndrome pretty quick.

Julian is a pleasant guy to chat with, definitely different to how he presents in "forum mode". Julian, I didn't get the MAF out today, I took my kids on a "polar express" steam engine ride by Mt Rainier. I'll get it out tomorrow am and send you tracking. Fingers crossed it solves your issue.

 

This is probably not the place to discuss ethics, morals, white sumpremacy etc. You really dont want to go there anyways. Plenty of social justive warriors rioting acorss the country as we speak and your welcome to hop on the "white gult" band wagon if it makes you feel better about your "situation". The past is the past, nobody can change that. Better to move on and stop pointing the finger at anyone who maintains a different point of view than you. That is diversity is it not?

As for my mechanic, the only point Id like to make is that you guys dont know the guy, most of you have never met him and none of you really have any idea about my truck or the persistant misfire issues Im having. Probably best not to judge a mechanic who owns his own business, is currently in the process of moving into a larger space to accomindate bigger and better tools, more room for more vehicles in his shop and more employees. Im very OCD about my truck and I do most of the work myself when possiable. He is probably the only other person I actually trust to put his hands on my truck. If I felt that he was dishonest or reckless in his work practices I would not hire him. Hes owned Rovers for years among many other vehicle makes and models. Hes got excellent fab skills and knows his ****. He has gone above and beyond for me and my truck in ways that Im not even at liberty to mention online.... so give the guy a break.

However hes still just another human being and like the rest of us he does make mistakes sometimes. Theres no aregument in that. But the quality of his work and his honest make up for it sevenfold.

 

Thank you. Honestly my fingers are crossed. I have addressed every other known mechanical problem big or small on this truck and the very last thing is these dam misfires. The new Turner block has made my OCD skyrocket. Anything that has the potential to damage the block or decrease the efficiency of the block MUST be addressed. Decreased fuel economy is also a concern as every MPG counts for my road trip. The cost difference between 8MPG and 11 MPG is signifigant. With the misfires fixed, even with all the gear on a fully loaded rig my MPG will improve signifigantly and save me $$$$.

I hope the MAF resolves the problem because I hate doing the wires. Still baffles me why LR decided to mount the coil pack on the back side of the intake plenum, thus requiring you to remove the entire upper intake just to replace wires..... if I had to chose between replacing fuel injectors or wires.... Id do the injectors because its easier and more enjoyable than reaching behind their and trying to get the wires correctly secured into place on the coil pack.