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  #561  
Old 12-21-2016, 03:32 AM
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70/30 mix should take you down to about -65F. If it gets colder then that...you will either have to run the engine or use a block heater...or drain the fluid (through the nonexistent drain valve on the radaitor...lol).

Straight antifreeze will freeze at a higher temperature than a 50/50 mix.

Oil: 5W40 would most likely be fine. Lack of a strong battery and good starter will be the main issues for not starting.

Brian.
 
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  #562  
Old 12-21-2016, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Charlie_V
I'm sorry the MAF didn't fix anything. I was pushing that. My bad. It worked for me in the past so I was hopeful.

I Googled cold weather antifreeze and most recommended 60/40 or even straight antifreeze. I also read an LR3 forum where several claimed to have electrical problems in extreme cold. A few claimed issues with diff oil and that's where I saw the term "heat pad".



​​​​
Not surprising being a LR3 or any newer Land Rover. To many computer/electronic dependant componets. Least the D2 is still mostly driven by mechanical componets and levers. I think those heating pads also require a power source like the engine block heaters....
 
  #563  
Old 12-21-2016, 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by The Deputy
70/30 mix should take you down to about -65F. If it gets colder then that...you will either have to run the engine or use a block heater...or drain the fluid (through the nonexistent drain valve on the radaitor...lol).

Straight antifreeze will freeze at a higher temperature than a 50/50 mix.

Oil: 5W40 would most likely be fine. Lack of a strong battery and good starter will be the main issues for not starting.

Brian.

I noticed Shell Ritella has a T6 sybthetic blend 5w-40 motor oil. Double the price of the T4 Im currently using but probably a good bet if I decide to continue using Shell products all rear round.

You guys are getting hammered with snow and ice right now arent you? Saw a news bulletin 2 weeks ago about a MASSIVE multiple vehicle crash on the highway somewhere in Michigan. Crazy....
 
  #564  
Old 12-22-2016, 12:29 AM
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Originally Posted by TRIARII
I noticed Shell Ritella has a T6 sybthetic blend 5w-40 motor oil. Double the price of the T4 Im currently using but probably a good bet if I decide to continue using Shell products all rear round.

You guys are getting hammered with snow and ice right now arent you? Saw a news bulletin 2 weeks ago about a MASSIVE multiple vehicle crash on the highway somewhere in Michigan. Crazy....
TRIARII there is a thread somewhere here about Shell altering the ZDDP levels (very recently) that made Rotella so popular. Lowering them. That's not good for flat tappet cams and I drew the conclusion that Rotella may not be the right oil for my "fleet' anymore. Just food for thought.

I use the T6 in my Excursion diesel. It takes 15 quarts and even with my 'commercial" discount that is 111 dollars worth of oil per change from the local parts store. Ridiculous. Without high ZDDP levels it is an insult.
 
  #565  
Old 12-28-2016, 12:48 PM
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FYI local auto parts stores still stock Shell Rotella T 15w-40 (old formula). Did my second 3k oil change yesterday so I lucked out when I picked up the old formula. Hopefully as a community we get to the bottom of things with this new formula T4.

I reached out to Turner again, this time with more specific info regarding the symptoms, parts replaced and derails about running condition. Also mentioned how the misfure codes maintain a pending status and do not trigger check engine light. Turners response:

"RE: Persistant misfire issue
TE

Dear Julian
Thank you for your e mail.

We have given the advice in our previous e mail based on many years of practical experience with previous customers who have had similar problems reported that have been resolved by the advice given.

If your mechanic refuses to investigate or accept the possibility that there is an ignition related problem this is extremely unhelpful. Red hot catalytic converters are consistent with retarded ignition or combustion of fuel in the exhaust system which suggests that the engine ancillary systems are not functioning correctly.

The camshaft problem that you suggest based on unqualified advice from internet forums is the least probable cause and can be disregarded as can any problems associated with the short engine supplied.

We have sold a large number of engines with the H180 Kent camshaft and can advise that a high speed misfire is not consistent with the camshaft profile.

Typically misfires surrounding a camshaft will be at low engine speed as a result of choosing a camshaft not suitable for road use which makes power at high rpm. The Kent H180 camshafts is suitable for automatic and manual transmissions and has a clean idle which is desirable for these type of transmissions and has proven to date to be trouble free.

It is inconceivable that one camshaft would be made any different than others from the same batch. It would be improbable for camshaft problems of this type to arise after so many years of production of one of the most successful camshafts on the market.

You need to instruct your mechanic to carry out the checks advised in my previous e mail and until this is done we are unable to offer any further assistance. If you wish to discuss please feel free to call me.

Regards
Richard Turner
Turner Engineering
Churchill House, West Park Road, Newchapel, nr Lingfield, Surrey RH7 6HT, United Kingdom
( Tel : +44 (0) 1342 834713
( Fax: +44 (0) 1342 834042
Turner Engineering - Remanufacturer of Land Rover Engines and supplier of Land Rover engine parts
www.turnerengineering.co.uk"

I feel like Im in the middle if a tug of war between a very reputable engineering company and a reputable mechanic that I trust. Difference is I know Don pretty well but I dont know the folks at Turner. The company still maintains that my issue mat be the flywheel. Turner had no comment about the lack of check engine codes, or any other symptoms usually associated with engine misfires.

Im about $1,000 shy of having the $$$$ in gas needed for my trip and the inshore lobster season coming to a close January 15th. I cannot afford to take my truck out of commission for afew days, pay the labor charges to have the engine pulled out again just to inspect the flywheel ABD pay the hefty $$$$ for a rental. If the company I wirk for in AK gives the green light for January/February then Um going for it- misfires or no misfires. If they say I have to wait until April-June then Ill take a normal "bankers hours" job and continue saving up extra $$$$. At that rate I may be able to have the flywheel inspected.

When I do get the frame swapped the engine and transmission will be removed anyways so ideally that would be the best time to have the flywheel inspected oer Turners recommendations.

Pain in the *****.
 
  #566  
Old 12-29-2016, 01:10 AM
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Geez. That's bad news all around. So Turner wants you to check the flywheel for... ?? For what? You already solved the hot cats and everything else except the misfires, right?

Not questioning Turner... he is a legend. But Crower makes cams and their rep told me on the phone that the more aggressive cams can show misfires when there are none. So, whatever. Not sure how to resolve that conflict.

I'm assuming he is concerned that the flywheel is wobbling or bent or otherwise not communicating to the crank sensor.

Confused.
 
  #567  
Old 12-29-2016, 09:43 AM
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"Typically misfires surrounding a camshaft will be at low engine speed as a result of choosing a camshaft not suitable for road use which makes power at high rpm. The Kent H180 camshafts is suitable for automatic and manual transmissions and has a clean idle which is desirable for these type of transmissions and has proven to date to be trouble free."


The misfire from certain cylinders only happens at idle every once in awhile on my motor. Never at high speed or low speed. Interesting that Turner does not explain the ECU issue in any detail for this Kent cam except to say, for "Clean idle". Yes there is a learned response over time but every once in a while it slips and shows the misfire code for certain cylinders....typical LAnd Rover...I would just drive it and clear the codes.
 

Last edited by Yoops Racing; 12-29-2016 at 09:47 AM.
  #568  
Old 12-29-2016, 11:28 AM
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Default There is hope

With the inshore lobstering season coming to a close I'm looking for my next contract. I could take a break from fishing and take a normal 8-5 job or continue fishing and try my hand on a bigger 82 foot steel hull offshore lobster boat. Apparently this is the busiest time of the year for offshore lobstering and these boats don't mess around. Rumor has it deckhands on these offshore boats make between $4000-$8,000 per trip. One good trip on one of these boats would give me more than enough for my trip and then some. Do maybe 5 trips and I'd have enough $$$$ for a camper and an acre of land in AK and still have money left over for the frame swap. Got another week on board the Meagan Jay then I'm going to reach back out to this company. Got my fingers crossed.












 

Last edited by TRIARII; 12-29-2016 at 11:55 AM.
  #569  
Old 12-29-2016, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by TRIARII
"RE: Persistant misfire issue
TE

Dear Julian
Thank you for your e mail.
......
If your mechanic refuses to investigate or accept the possibility that there is an ignition related problem this is extremely unhelpful.
Originally Posted by TRIARII
Its most obviously an electrical issue somewhere in the ignition system.
Sounds like you and Turner are in agreement so what's the problem? At some point someone needs to actually troubleshoot and find the real source of the misfires.
At this point its pretty obvious that Turner is in full on CYA mode. They've said all they're going to say in writing.
 
  #570  
Old 12-30-2016, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by fishEH
Sounds like you and Turner are in agreement so what's the problem? At some point someone needs to actually troubleshoot and find the real source of the misfires.
At this point its pretty obvious that Turner is in full on CYA mode. They've said all they're going to say in writing.
We have spent days and $$$ diagnosing these pending misfire codes. No avail. Today those pending misfire codes turned into full fledged check engine codes. There definitely is a problem somewhere in the system. Still no flashing cel or glowing cats though.

I ordered a set of cheap Duralast Gold ignition wires to replace the magnecore wires and a pair of BOSCH coils to replace the Allmakes4x4 coils. Should get them on the 4th. The wires come with lifetime warranty and the coils a 2 year warranty.

It would cost me an upwards of $2,000 in labor to have my mechanic perform all the checks suggested by Turner. If the wires and coils don't fix the problem Ill give Don the go ahead to pull the engine and inspect everything. I will also have him perform compression test on the block. Hopefully it won't come to that.

One of Don's good friends went through 2 bad sets of Magnecor wires before finally switching over to a different manufacturer wires.... Solved his misfire problem. Perhaps there is a quality control issue at Magnecore...
 


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