It's the correct part, look at the difference in sidewall heights. It's missing the weld tab on the tall side. I can't even imagine running a bead the entire length, not with a TIG. I'd turn 90 before I finished it.

 

I hear ya 'Scouts......

This is their 'inner' section, this is where the body sag occurs and your warped, rounded floors come into play........this is where you need to be correct if really taking on the challenge.....



BUT.......Considering your floors are probably already gone, your going to have a seriously hard time cutting this area free and replacing without the doors being shut or the body braced......I would think. I checked my door alignment probably 3 times, just doing the floor.

Don't know.......Maybe over thinking, need to take the time to lay under there for a while. I deff. have body sag, you can see it in the floor.....then again when aligning the new floor......you'd want to lift the body to reverse the sag prior to removal........but unsure where this would take place when there's so much rust........

Again, this area may become sympathetic.........at this point without much choice, but I'd rather come up with a better fix.......leaning towards tube.

 

That's a 'patch' part, cover over......Koozie on a beer can...........get's you through inspection, that's about it....

 

Watching all the rust repair in this thread has me looking at options for repairing my rotting rockers on the Expedition. Good practice before I try welding up a body part on something that matters Has me thinking of building the rockers up into rocker sliders....

Well hopefully that site gets your mind on track to fab up a repair.

 

Expedition?
If you have a 90 degree angle there, once the roundish rocker is gone, slip an oversized box tube in........I can go into detail later.

Extremely common repair on Jeep Cherokee's for those who wheel, instant slyder when done proper.....I've also done it to CJ7's & 8's requiring extensive repair.......rather quick, easy, and better than stock times 10!

 

Rocker slider is the answer.


This the passenger side looking directly under the sill towards the front. Bottom has vaporized. The plastic sill thingy is actually curving under towards the frame. Major sill sag and floor buckling. Plastic Fantastico was easy peasy compared to this little problem.......

 

Ya man..........One off? Is this failure shared with the D2's?
Part numbers suggest 'NO' with the before mentioned supplier........so I'm thinking a very limited market to pursue heavy handed.

When welding is involved, you've basically removed 70% of your market right from the start........low volume without doubt in a really good, thought out, rocker/slyder solution...........booooo.

 

Even still, were back to pulling it off correctly with the body sag..........I don't know the easy answer.

 

I have a 99 Expedition, I ended up with it as my DD and tow vehicle. Does pretty damn well but she is a bit rusty, underneath.

I know what you have in mind with the tube. I am thinking 2x6 box so I get a slider/step out the deal. Might even lift it a little, need to try and fit in with these Georgia Good o'le boys

 

Don't try to fit in...........it's better to let them think your off beat, from a different neighborhood........keeps them on their toes. I'm all for getting along, fitting in is totally different......