use Silicon, Permatex copper or RTV
#11
Spec calls for 2 stages, but the next day when I go back to the bolts, there is no torque on them so I have learned to torque them again the following day. Maybe this is why so many owners have problems with them. Hell, maybe it's because I broke the Loctite bond on the 2nd torquing stage, I really do not know. But with that being said, maybe more investigation should be done to prevent future issues with loosening valve covers. I saw a Loctite Green (unsure of its application) on the shelf yesterday. It all comes down to using a thread sealant/adhesive that allows torquing in stages to compress that thick A$$ gasket.
Last edited by chubbs878; 01-08-2017 at 01:43 PM.
#12
The blue Loctite, in my experience allows the bolts to be handled at a later time. I have used the blue on VC bolts a couple of times in the past and had no issue with torquing in stages. Now, the red Loctite hardens so that is a different animal.
As for your earlier question about copper/sealants on the cylinder side of gasket, that side I left completely dry. The copper is just to hold the gasket in place on the cover but it doesn't work most of the time as there is some finagling with it on the Rover. The main thing is just getting that gasket seated properly between the head and the cover; the lip can get squished underneath and you are screwed if you aren't looking for it.
I really like how you clamped that cover to the table; way better than my sitting it on the floor! Have you put the covers on yet? I have always done that manifold gasket dry, but I'm either going to double them up this time, or use copper on the upper manifold side/ dry on the lower manifold side. The face of my upper plenum is not perfectly flat and I'm concerned that it's not sealing completely. But that's just my situation. Would love to have dropped that off with my other parts at the cylinder shop but in my haste, I forgot to inquire about it.
As for your earlier question about copper/sealants on the cylinder side of gasket, that side I left completely dry. The copper is just to hold the gasket in place on the cover but it doesn't work most of the time as there is some finagling with it on the Rover. The main thing is just getting that gasket seated properly between the head and the cover; the lip can get squished underneath and you are screwed if you aren't looking for it.
I really like how you clamped that cover to the table; way better than my sitting it on the floor! Have you put the covers on yet? I have always done that manifold gasket dry, but I'm either going to double them up this time, or use copper on the upper manifold side/ dry on the lower manifold side. The face of my upper plenum is not perfectly flat and I'm concerned that it's not sealing completely. But that's just my situation. Would love to have dropped that off with my other parts at the cylinder shop but in my haste, I forgot to inquire about it.
I am going to follow your advice on not using on the Head side. If the sealant sticks good then next time cleaning is going to be a bitch. covers are easy to clean as they are out.
By the way how do you clean the upper Intake? Break cleaner? I have been using paint thinner with a rag works like miracle.
Thanks Man
#13
Spec calls for 2 stages, but the next day when I go back to the bolts, there is no torque on them so I have learned to torque them again the following day. Maybe this is why so many owners have problems with them. Hell, maybe it's because I broke the Loctite bond on the 2nd torquing stage, I really do not know. But with that being said, maybe more investigation should be done to prevent future issues with loosening valve covers. I saw a Loctite Green (unsure of its application) on the shelf yesterday. It all comes down to using a thread sealant/adhesive that allows torquing in stages to compress that thick A$$ gasket.
#14
This, proper torque is key.
#15
#16
#17
replace your VC bolts with the O-ringed design that Lucky there has and you should be leak free for a few years until the replacement gaskets begin to harden again.
#18
#20
I have not yet. The cold shrinks the Gasket that's why I could not do it yesterday. Planning on putting them on today re-torque hour later just so the Locktile does not dry up. will attempt tomorrow again.
I am going to follow your advice on not using on the Head side. If the sealant sticks good then next time cleaning is going to be a bitch. covers are easy to clean as they are out.
By the way how do you clean the upper Intake? Break cleaner? I have been using paint thinner with a rag works like miracle.
Thanks Man
I am going to follow your advice on not using on the Head side. If the sealant sticks good then next time cleaning is going to be a bitch. covers are easy to clean as they are out.
By the way how do you clean the upper Intake? Break cleaner? I have been using paint thinner with a rag works like miracle.
Thanks Man
i had had the head shop dip mine in the chemical bath to get all the carbon out. If you have access to a parts cleaner, let it soak in there or seal the stuff off and pour some sea foam in it and shake it vigorously and it should break up a ton of it. Or you can use the paint thinner and use ziplock bags and tape to cover all the openings and put it in and let it do its job.