I usually will reset engine adaptions and reset base idle for these concerns. I noticed on the last D1 I did, the intake manifold gasket was leaking very slightly. I took a water bottle and poured water between the valve cover and intake manifold. This caused a small amount of water in get sucked into the combustion chamber. White smoke or steam appeared in the exhaust for a few minutes. Slight misfire as well until the water is burned off. I did the is a couple times to confirm the location of the leak. Usually at the corners, Cyl #1 or 2, 7 or 8.

 

Going to give it a go tomorrow. Man, hope this works.

BTW, here are my Ultragauge readings at idle, in gear, foot brake on, and warmed up.

 

Those numbers look pretty good. Mine at idle are the following:

Rpm: 720s
TP%: 12%
MAF: .09g/s

 

This is what I did:
Downloaded robertf's .zip file and extracted it to a folder on my desktop. (WIN XP)
Opened up a Command Prompt box. C:\Documents and Settings\xxxxx\Desktop\Gems
Plugged in the https://www.scantool.net/obdlink-sx/ to the OBD2 port, then plugged it into laptop. It was using COM 4 on my laptop.
Then, with key on engine off,
Microsoft Windows XP [Version 5.1.2600]
(C) Copyright 1985-2001 Microsoft Corp.

C:\Documents and Settings\xxxxx>cd desktop\gems

C:\Documents and Settings\xxxxx\Desktop\GEMS>gems com4 reset

Connecting to:com4
...........
AUTHORIZING
AIR ADAPTIVE VALUE: 49919
FUEL ADAPTIVE VALUE: 22
TPS CLOSED VALUE: .560V
RESETTING ADAPTIVE VALUES
DISCONNECTING

C:\Documents and Settings\xxxxx\Desktop\GEMS>

HUZZAH! Now for a 60 mile drive.

 

AWESOME, even if it doesn't change anything somebody still has finally hacked something we all can use to enter the Land Rover ECU kingdom. Single biggest complaint all these years, can't get in. I would say if the idle doesn't come down it's gotta be a vacuum leak. Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!!

 

Started it after resetting and the idle came down. Turned it off then back on and was still good. That is what was getting me with all my little adjustments on the IACV when I was moving it a rch and putting it back in. First start after was good. Second not so much. Every time. Even when I bottomed the pintle out and had to hold the pedal down to keep it from stalling. Next start, it went up to about 2k rpm.

 

COOL! So now it should float (the register value) a bit until you have XX many drive cycles (relearns) and then hard set for the remainder of the battle. I'd like to see an app for all the parameters but I'm greedy like that. I'm heading over to Dweb tonight. Post up your UG readings again. The MAF reading is fine if you like to interpolate but it's not correct because the UG can't decipher the ECU's language on that bit of kit.

 

60 miles and about 5-6 stops. Running just fine.
Here are a couple Ultraguage pics.
At idle in park.
At idle in drive foot brake appled
​​​​​​​​​​​​​​

 

RPM at spec is 700+/-20 = 680-720 with everything off, no load. Idle is a little low but from experience it's damn good right where its at as long as you're not experiencing any threat of shutdown at stops. It should start to pick up after several drive cycles, usually about 650 would be common. If it does not pick up much then the plenum and trumpets need a thorough cleaning that'll increase the air flow just a fraction.

 

Groovy.