Do i have to use anti seize or loctite on the exhaust manifold bolts? Thanks

 

i didn't and no issues

 

Preferably install them with a light wipe of engine oil which inevitably will burn off later pn. You never know when you may need to change them later.

 

Dear God. I'm no expert but I'd never use Loctite on anything in the exhaust system. Exhaust system fasteners are enough of a problem naked.

The RAVE is silent, which means don't use nuthin, but I note that anti-seize is specified for the O2s so why not for the manifold bolts?

A year ago, six years after my headgasket job (I don't recall using anti-seize at the time) I found that the exhaust manifold bolts on the RHS needed to be re-torqued but I'd much rather build that into my regular routine than to not be able to remove a bolt.

 

I did my HG last november 2016 and the gaskets came with the kit and replaced them that time. The truck sounded like a tank and thought of replacing gaskets. I did use anti seize and probably made the manifold loose. I did use the right torque setting as well.

 

I've used anti-seize most of my life, 40 years of being a mechanic, and never remember a manifold coming loose on account of it. No need to go crazy with the stuff, just a small dab on the threads...and tighten/torque to desired amount. On aluminum engines, I use the silver anti-seize. And use the copper stuff on metal/steel parts.

I'd never, ever use loctite on an exhaust bolt...and have never seen it recommended...especially on an aluminum head.

Brian.

 

Also, I usually flat file the machine surface of the manifold ports. Try and find a file large enough that you can go across at least three of the ports at the same time. Use a straight edge to check your progress. And flat file the exit port too.

Brian.

 

I used anti-seize on mine over 10 years ago and I haven't had a problem.