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The peg on the back of this mirror finisher is the first thing I broke on this truck. Has been bugging my wife ever since. Finally did something about it. Could of done a better job with the countersink but, meh.
She left me stranded near Waldorf Md last week. (Shout out to Ted's Towing. Great guys... showed up FAST and let me leave the Rover outside their place for a few days until I could get back with a trailer to drag it home).
Word to the wise.... when you want to tow/drag onto a trailer... and you are 2+ hours from home.... remember to bring your keys.
Good side... it' turns out it's stupid easy to disconnect the shift linkage from the transmission. One small cotter pin. Bad side ...Yes... it'd be that easy to steal our trucks. Apparently the shift interlock is IN the shifter... good for me in this case.
If she sputters and bucks on you occasionally, check your fuel pressure at the rail. I didn't and then the pump totally quit and I was stuck.
Screws for the pump access cover were total rust. I just popped it off with a pry bar. I broke off the inserts and am just going to replace it with some self tappers. (turns out there's rust in the floor on each side of the cargo area.... did I say rust... there's HOLES on each side.... sheet metal work pending.) If you haven't been under there, pull up the carpet and take a look.
Spray the smutz away from the pump opening with compressed air and check the connectors (at the pump and in the left wheel well... they WILL be corroded... take care of that now too) If you have time, spray the fuel line connectors with wd-40 or Liquid wrench etc before you go after them. They will be a little crusty. Push the plastic INTO the connector to release... you need three hands and there's not even room for one.
Don't spend three hundred plus for a Rover pump assembly.
I got the pump (Part No E3270N) from advance auto. Didn't even have to change the electrical connector. Get a strainer if you can as the OEM is clamped to the pump and you have to tear it to get it off. I've got my old one tie wrapped to the pump so I hope they don't dissolve in fuel. If they do the strainer is being held in place now by the bottom of the bucket.
Old pump outlet was larger than the new one so I got fuel injection line and replace the pump to pump assembly cap. Works no problem as I don't anticipate needing to use the "collapsing" feature of the pump assembly.
If you are up on miles you should probably go ahead and change it. Total cost, about 80 bucks.
^This info has been around the net a really really long long time and the price for a complete unit hasn't ever changed, always way too expensive. I bought a complete Airtex collapsible unit for my 01 Jeep GC at a local parts palace - $84 bucks and that includes the float, sock filter and tank gasket..... lol. Suckahs!
Finished phase 3 of my raptor liner project. LOL inadvertently looks like the local cop cars now. Afterthoughts a beeatch.
Anyways, this was by far the hardest to do. I’ve found doors become complicated if changing colors and you want the jambs and painted inside parts to match. I settled on a very close satin black paint match and just went that route. Now the once white interior painted parts match the exterior.
Only have the doors left but that’s gonna be interesting as I gotta remove all of them to properly hit the jambs and door front insides.
Have used 12 quarts so far and will need one more 4 pack to be safe. All in all, with all related supplies: numerous rolls of masking tape, etch primer, prepaint, etc... I’m about $800 all in materials. Not to shabby.
Well, this is my first post on this site as a whole so I'm a little behind on the things I've done. I bought my first Land Rover 3 weeks ago and last week I built myself a roof rack. I'm a college kid with zero budget but I had a prof teach me how to weld and I bought 100ft. of 1/2" re-bar. I cut, welded, and finished the roof rack in two days, just in time to carry everything on a 16 hour drive to North Dakota. Here it is, I have not yet been able to paint it so it has started to rust just slightly, it should be painted with Rhino Liner by the end of the week.
Finished phase 3 of my raptor liner project. LOL inadvertently looks like the local cop cars now. Afterthoughts a beeatch.
Anyways, this was by far the hardest to do. I’ve found doors become complicated if changing colors and you want the jambs and painted inside parts to match. I settled on a very close satin black paint match and just went that route. Now the once white interior painted parts match the exterior.
Only have the doors left but that’s gonna be interesting as I gotta remove all of them to properly hit the jambs and door front insides.
Have used 12 quarts so far and will need one more 4 pack to be safe. All in all, with all related supplies: numerous rolls of masking tape, etch primer, prepaint, etc... I’m about $800 all in materials. Not to shabby.
I jumped my girls car, her battery died. Drove back home. Bought a new car, now I get 35mpg instead of 13-15. I’ll only use the disco when I have to. She’s on break for now, soon I’ll fix all the issues.
Finally got my new tires on today they are nice as **** 245/70/16 on stock disco 1 with rear sag all clear fine . ride nicer then they look no noise , trying 40ish psi for pressure , 10 ply .
12-14-2017 | 02:03 PM
Fuel Pump
