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Oil lamp and ticking at 170k: Suggestions on where to start

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  #111  
Old 01-03-2018, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by alpinacsi
The .010 and .020 are undersize bearing shells. You do not need to worry about trying to purchase them now for multiple reasons. They have been replaced already when the short block was rebuilt and you do not know what size was required at that point. If there is damage now: you do not know what it will take to correct it or what size will be needed. And you do not know if there is any damage.


If you are so worried about the time it is taking this shop: why was the vehicle taken there? And why was it left there after you decided their service was not acceptable? I would hate to be the owner of the shop because it looks like they are already being blasted before they even start to work on your vehicle. Maybe they see the writing and are not in a rush at this point or maybe they are really that good and are very busy at this point. I would rather wait for good than to have it rushed with further headaches later.
Punctuality and honesty go hand in hand. My expectations are very reasonable.


Oil pump failures were common on 2003 models within certain vin range. It is not normal for a brand new oil pump, mounted on a brand new block to fail 15-20k later.
 
  #112  
Old 01-03-2018, 05:17 PM
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Oil pumps can and do fail at any mileage on all years of these trucks. Totally unrelated to it being an '03.

I suspect you will find yours broken. Fix it and I also predict your engine will be fine.
 
  #113  
Old 01-03-2018, 05:29 PM
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If you want to learn engines, you are in luck.
The D2, and 4.6 are very simple, and easy to repair.
The hardest thing you will come across will be rusted, corroded, or broken fasteners or damaged threads.
Which is true of most anything mechanical.
You can remove and disassemble the whole thing with basic hand tools.
You can rent specialty tools from most parts stores.
An overhead chain hoist or engine crane really helps to remove the engine. Worst case, a couple strong guys could lift the short block out of it. As block and crank cant weigh much over 200lbs.
Not my first choice, but doable.
I just ordered a cam, cam bearings, crank and rod bearings, rings, flexplate, refurbished heads, all gaskets, front cover with oil pump. Had already bought new lifters, pushrods, rockershafts, timing chain, injectors.
With fluids, and other odds and ends, I'll still be under $2500 in parts.
 
  #114  
Old 01-03-2018, 07:10 PM
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If you can't replace the front cover and pump yourself you probably shouldn't be thinking about replacing the internals. I am in the process of rebuilding a 454 BBC for my chevelle, custom ground cam, all the goodies, 3 barrel carb, headers the whole works, 550hp/tq. I have a resto shop though...little different if you don't have the sq footage, tools, etc, my problem is time...my job is more than 13 hours a day soooo

I agree with the others, change the cover and the pump, drive it like you stole it.
 
  #115  
Old 01-04-2018, 04:52 PM
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Default How does this oil pump front cover look?

Alright so the shop is finally putting my truck on the lift. Their going to drop the oil pan first, inspect the pickup tube and replace oil pan gasket. Told them to inspect the oil for metal bits or any indication of damage. Tomorrow they will hopefully pull the front cover and oil pump. In the mean time I ordered a used front cover from Tarheel Rovers. Took some pictures and noticed what looks like scoring marks and small scratches. I assume this is the kind of wear that we are hoping to avoid? I assume this front cover is therefor useless to me. Wonder if lucky 8 has any good deals on front covers? I was really hoping to avoid spending another $500 on parts but alas.














 
  #116  
Old 01-04-2018, 05:01 PM
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Hard to tell from pictures.

The oil pan has to stay off to get the front cover off,do not have them replace pan until front cover is removed.
 
  #117  
Old 01-04-2018, 05:06 PM
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Me, I'd throw that cover in the trash.

Once they have the oil pan off...have them check one of the rod bearings, if it looks good, then pull the oil pump cover and inspect...and make decisions based on your findings.

Brian.
 
  #118  
Old 01-04-2018, 05:11 PM
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I just bought a front cover from Lucky8, should be here any time.
It was $390 or $400
 
  #119  
Old 01-04-2018, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by The Deputy
Me, I'd throw that cover in the trash.

Once they have the oil pan off...have them check one of the rod bearings, if it looks good, then pull the oil pump cover and inspect...and make decisions based on your findings.

Brian.
Do this and if you have too stick your cell phone up there and snap some pics, post them...the more eyes looking at your stuff, the more likely you are to find an issue
 
  #120  
Old 01-05-2018, 03:53 PM
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Default Update 1/5/18

Well 2 weeks later the truck is on the lift and the oil pan has been removed. Thats as far as the shop has gotten on my truck. They did point out that one of the main crank bearings looks like it may be bad. A swipe of the finger reveals a grey metallic residue. All the other crank bearings are clean and look fine. Guess I need clarification from you guys on weather or not it needs to be replaced. If yes does the engine need to be removed? I also inspected what I could of the gear ring. Some of the teeth has minor sighs of wear and if you look up between the gear ring and the engine, there looks to be 2 pin like needles in between the valley of the gear ring. One of the needle things is deep in the valley and the other one appears to be completely out of the valley. The mechanic speculated on weather or not that could be causing the issues with the misfires, or perhaps the teeth.

























 


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