PS...I've confirmed that my radiator tank is metal, and not plastic.

 

1. Yes
2. Maybe, only because I have not tried it. I don't see a part number for a gasket/oring, but it could be there.

3. Yes, a Rad Shop can braze the nut in place. At that time have them check what the cost would be to replace the core at the same time. Before I ever go and buy a replacement rad I always see if a re-core is possible. Mainly because the OE brass tanks and oil coolers are well built (your problem not withstanding).

You should also check the upper AT cooler line/hose is not getting hung up on the frame putting stress on the cooler mount in the radiator(i.e. the leak).

 

Thanks! Next steps are for us to remove the radiator and get it to the shop for a consult. I'll show them the problems, and ask about a re-core, then I will return and report. (I'll also check that AT cooler line to see if it's pushing).

 

OK, just went and looked a my '95 and '96 DI's with OE rads.
The '95 had a thinner nut and it looks brazed from the factory. The other 3 are the same.

The '96 has a larger (thicker) hex nut that would turn. The other 3 are also the same size.
I wasn't going to back it off all the way, but it looks like it could be removed.

Either way a Rad shop can correct this type of leak.
Just for giggles, if you can post a pic of what you are looking at before you remove the rad.

 

I re-cored mine and am very happy. That said, it is a $300-400 job in most areas.

 

Thanks for looking! Yes, I'll take and post some pics, and check on turning that hex nut a bit, just in case.

 

Here is a video of the situation:


Here are a few photos:




Pulled away from the radiator, showing the space for the coolant to leak.



Pushed towards the radiator, showing the space closed.

 

Well that confirms it the factory brazing around the hex nut is cracked. First, STOP pulling/stressing the cooler/crack (IK you only did it for the vid) because what looks fixable now could turn into a bigger problem if the internal cooler leaks.

First spray that tube nut (which looks in crazy good condition) with some penetrating oil. Then when you go to remove the tube nut on the AT cooler hardline SUPPORT the HEX nut at the radiator with a spanner wrench. Again more stress on the cooler will render this rad total scrap. Do the same "procedure" with the other 3 cooler hardlines.

Once you get this rad out and to a shop they will know in 5 minutes if this can/should be brazed.
And for a shop this is a very low effort repair. I would also have them braze the hex on the bottom fitting too.
By the looks of your pics it can be fixed. I know I'd give it a go.
Good Luck!

 

Thanks! Son and I will be working on removing the radiator this evening. We'll try to carefully stabilize those hex nuts at the radiator as we go. Angles will be tough. I sprayed them with PB B'laster last night.

 

Quick update. That PB B'laster did the trick! All 4 of those nuts came lose easy and came right off. We got the radiator out, and it's now at the local shop for inspection and possible repair. It looks like it's in decent shape to me, but what do I know?

Here are some pics of the scene.




Engine bay with radiator removed. We'll use this opportunity to clean up and remove some sludge areas.



Radiator



Cracked trans. fluid connector



Trans. fluid connector



Oil connector



Oil connector



The boy getting his hands dirty.