Couldn’t have said it any better.

 

 

I was referring to Shane’s post/reply.

 

Please read all of my past posts with this thread before replying. Thanks much everyone, feeling frustrated right now but we will get to the bottom of this. The old water pump and front engine cove looked fine. Installed new water pump, did several bleeds till water was at top of bleed screw when I did cold checks. Yes, distilled water and I know coolant will get me a few degrees cooler, but not anywhere I need to be. Drove 65mph for 2mi, then 55 for 1, 230f temperature. Shopped for maybe 20min, temp 210, drove back, 245f. The factory temperature gauge actually went slightly above 1/2 or center for first time. I'm actually slightly worse than before water pump. Same exact problem, all hoses too hot to touch other than bottom radiator hose, no thermostat in. Thoughts? Thanks for reading all my posts.

 

U need a temp gun to verify the actual engine/hose/radiator temps. Just going by the sending unit’s temp = not accurate as it “could” be giving a false temp. 245F = that engine would be toast or pissing coolant out of the reservoir like a volcano.

 

The image below illustrates the coolant flow as I understand it. If all rad hoses are too hot to touch,I know this is subjective, except the lower. And the lower seems cool or only warm the problem has to be your rad or significant air still in the system

Have you done the basic hand on the rad test to see if it hot on top and significantly less so at the bottom ?



Coolant flow

 

You have no thermostat in?

How did you bypass it? Please explain your setup.

 

I used the plastic tee that has the bleeder in it to replace the thermostat. That's how it was "bypassed". I now installed everything as it should be. Doing bleeds on ramps. After 20 min of running on a 70degree day these are the surface temperatures, did this 2x: gauge 205 (sending unit intalled into the tee with the bleeder which I replaced with brass), top 163,150, bottom 106,112, to pump, 157,156, heater vore 183&169, 189&176, from thermostat, 169,146, from engine 161 radiator top and bottom 123&103, 121&96. These are surface temperatures done in middle or hoses both ways. Factory gauge right in middle. Maybe nothing is wrong. I did blow one hose and a heater core hose is about to. Maybe I replace that hose and put proper coolant in and go for a longer drive than the 3-4 into town. Maybe install my sending unit elsewhere or... Where do you guys install? At a lose here guys. This is my first wheeler, want to make sure she is top notch before installing toys and head into bush.

 

Sorry but I am having trouble with the way you gave use the temp info, if I follow correctly.

Gauge sending unit in the bleeder T

If I have the readings right

Gauge Rad top Rad bottom Top Hose ? Bottom hose ?

205 121 103 163 106
205 103 96 150 112

My big concern is that temp gauge it can not be right you can not get a 100 deg drop in 2 feet or even a 40 deg drop in that distance.

Factory gauge is useless for this it will not move until you hit well above 220, if you have a modern smart phone get this :


If you are on Android get Torque light

If Apple you will have to see what is out there for free ODB software

Hook it up and see what the ECU reports for temps

 

Is that a product you use for your rover?

The temperature readings are all surface temperatures done with raytek gun, OTHER than the ones that are first listed as gauge, those are from aftermarket sending unit in the brass tee where bleeder is. All temperatures are listed 2x as I tested 2 different days. All temperatures are the hoses, top, bottom referring to the top radiator hise and bottom. I also have temperatures of the actual radiator top and bottom. Sorry for the confusion, I hope this helps. I believe the temperature from the sending unit in the tee would be much higher than the surface temperature. I can go get some more temperature readings.