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$10 window regulator fix

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Old 05-28-2011, 11:28 PM
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Default $10 window regulator fix

I bought some 1 inch teflon furniture slides that fit the window track and replaced the cracked white nylon ones. Peel off the backing of glide, and you will have to sand or file it slightly to reduce the thickness. This allows it to fit into the window track. You make a sharp cut on one side of the glide, so that it will snap over the stud of the window regulator, no need to drill it out. With the cut parallel to the track, it can't spread and release the regulator stud. I used white lithium grease on mine. It slides great, even though it is square. Found a pack of these at Home Depot, they are made by Sheppard, could be carried by other hardware stores. I have done a front and rear window using this product.

Edit: members have mentioned some Home Depots don't carry this, saw it on Amazon
Amazon Amazon
. It is Shepherd "Slideguide" 9240H.

I also used the wiring trick at Window Lift ECU Repair Kit D1/95' RC | Land Rover Parts to bypass the window lift ECU and make my rear windows operational.
 
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Last edited by Savannah Buzz; 02-07-2013 at 01:39 AM. Reason: Add pix
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Old 05-29-2011, 09:10 AM
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If you could make your pics so they are not a download, lots of people (and I dont blame them) will not download things from people they do not know because it could be a virus.
So if you use Photobucket or some other free photo sharing site you can copy and paste your pics into the forum.
 
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Old 05-29-2011, 10:33 AM
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Yeah that stopped me.
 
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Old 05-29-2011, 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Spike555
If you could make your pics so they are not a download, lots of people (and I dont blame them) will not download things from people they do not know because it could be a virus.
So if you use Photobucket or some other free photo sharing site you can copy and paste your pics into the forum.
I recomend Kaspersky Internet Security, I have yet to pick up any bugs since using it and it has a very small footprint.. (doesnt use alot of your system resources)
 
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Old 05-30-2011, 07:49 AM
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jpg thumbnail added to original - now you can "see" without a separate down load. Not sure Rover people have a lot of time for hacking, what with overheating, leaky, grinding transfer cases, and the ever reliable front crank seal, tie rod ends, etc....
 
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Old 05-30-2011, 08:29 AM
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Thank you for the thumb nail.

Do you know how much spam we get on the forum? Mike and I delete and ban so many people each week its ridiculous.
Most pose as Rover owners or potential buyers so the threat for downloading a virus is always there, the internet is a ***** and she's is STD ridden.
You need to use protection when using her.
 

Last edited by Spike555; 05-30-2011 at 08:34 AM.
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Old 06-09-2011, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Savannah Buzz
I bought some 1 inch teflon furniture slides that fit the window track and replaced the cracked white nylon ones. Peel off the backing of glide, and you will have to sand or file it slightly to reduce the thickness. This allows it to fit into the window track. You make a sharp cut on one side of the glide, so that it will snap over the stud of the window regulator, no need to drill it out. With the cut parallel to the track, it can't spread and release the regulator stud. I used white lithium grease on mine. It slides great, even though it is square. Found a pack of these at Home Depot, they are made by Sheppard, could be carried by other hardware stores. I have done a front and rear window using this product.

I also used the wiring trick at Window Lift ECU Repair Kit D1/95' RC | Land Rover Parts to bypass the window lift ECU and make my rear windows operational.
Savannah Buzz,

I just got back from Home Depot with the Slideglide 9240H 8 pack.

When you say "Peel off the backing of the glide" I see 4 layers on each slide.

1-is the peel off paper that covers the adhesive backing,
2-is a white foam layer that has the sticky adhesive on it, that I dont think would be sandable,
3-is a black rubber layer that I dont think would be sandable,..
4-is the main body of the glide, the gray plastic (teflon) part.

Are you suggesting just peeling off the adhesive backing paper and sand on the adhesive/foam layer, or are you removing the backing paper, the white foam, the black rubber and then sanding on the main body of the slide glide??

Also, you say "make a sharp cut",.........looks like there is a metal washer imbedded in the main teflon glide body,..........how are you making the "Sharp cut"..........hacksaw?......

BC
 

Last edited by bcolins; 06-09-2011 at 06:02 PM.
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Old 06-09-2011, 09:14 PM
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I took off all the backing and reduced the thickness of the remaining teflon square glide by sanding or file. I used a razor knife to make a cut from the edge of the square glide to the center. This allowed the glide to squeeze over the existing stud for the regulator, without drilling it out. Whn I put the glide in the track, I arranged the cut to be horizontal, like the track. The track keeps it from spreading apart. And that metal washer was removed, not needed.
 

Last edited by Savannah Buzz; 06-10-2011 at 04:21 AM. Reason: added text
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Old 06-13-2011, 03:21 AM
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Got it done. Window goes up and down,....but when just starting the downward travel,...it sometimes jams about 1 inch from the top.....and wont go any further,......when I try to put it back up...........it makes a loud popping sound , I have taken the door completely apart and removed the regulator for a look,....everything looks OK, nothing loose or bent, all slides or rollers intact,...no worn teeth on the gear/sector.

any thoughts?
 
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Old 06-14-2011, 06:51 AM
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One of my regulator frames was warped from PO (and me) operating window with broken rollers. On another window the PO had installed white double stick mounting tape in the window weather strip track to hold the glass panel up, that caused problems when lowering window. I did lube my teflon squares with white lithium, have not had the exact problem you describe.
 


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