98 Discovery Shifter/Key stuck alternately
#31
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Pittsburgh PA suburbs.
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NO, it has nothing to do with HI or LOW. Never has, never will.
That is indeed the Selector Plate for the Diff Lock function. It turns CCW to LOCK, CW to UNLOCK. That is all it does. Locks center diff or unlocks center diff.
But it still will be 4wd either High or Low which is controlled by having the shifter either forward for low or rearward for high.
I hope this helps you understand your Discovery. There are lots of videos on Utube do a search under Land Rover Discovery Locking Differential on google or Utube.
Over and Out.
That is indeed the Selector Plate for the Diff Lock function. It turns CCW to LOCK, CW to UNLOCK. That is all it does. Locks center diff or unlocks center diff.
But it still will be 4wd either High or Low which is controlled by having the shifter either forward for low or rearward for high.
I hope this helps you understand your Discovery. There are lots of videos on Utube do a search under Land Rover Discovery Locking Differential on google or Utube.
Over and Out.
#32
I know it's full-time 4WD and know about the central diff shifter and what the different positions in the "H" gate do.
I just got confused when I said mine is stuck in 4H and you responded:
I just got confused when I said mine is stuck in 4H and you responded:
As far as the CDL, I had totally removed and rebuilt mine from the top down. You can jump directly to that bottom selector plate, spray it all good first, then put a socket on that nut (13mm?) with long extension and attempt to loosen that nut (CCW rotation looking down from above). If you can rotate the plate at the center, it should move the entire shifter linkage as well as lock the cdl, cw rotation will unlock it.
#34
#35
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I am mainly familar with just the CDL lock and unlock aspects of the shifter mechanism.
The high/low portion I have not really dealt with.
I have also seen an air driven mechanism for the CDL.
The way these linkages are open to so much contamination from below, they are a weak point in the overall scheme of things.
The high/low portion I have not really dealt with.
I have also seen an air driven mechanism for the CDL.
The way these linkages are open to so much contamination from below, they are a weak point in the overall scheme of things.
#36
Ok, key and shifter work perfectly.
Followed the steps in RAVE to take off the center console and then the interlock instructions to take apart the gear selector box and get the shifter out.
Here is the shifter.
Here is a view of the fin that goes in a grate which prevents you from shifting without pressing the button. The green arrow just indicates that the fin and inner rod should move freely up and down. Mine did not.
This last pic tries to show what was wrong and what I did to fix it.
The outer rod was slightly bent causing the inner rod to bind as it moved down. The yellow polygon shows an exaggerated version of the bend (it looks weird cause I drew it in the wrong direction so i had to flip it in paint). I removed the spring holder clip (green arrow) so that the inner rod could slide freely and moved it to the "up" position. I then put the end of a crowbar (only wedge device I had) and pressed it into the slot (blue arrow); perpendicular to, not inline with, the shifter. From there I tapped the crowbar in with the hammer, checked the slide action, tapped more, checked again, etc. until the inner rod moved freely. The slot wasnt quite parallel with the fin, so I tapped a big flathead screwdriver in a few times where the red arrow is. Put the spring clip back on, lubed it up, and it had nice smooth spring action again!
Got it all back together, and the shifter, button, and key work perfectly!
I think when the shifter is in park, the fin in my second pic activates the little switch referred to in my Does anyone know what this does? thread. That switch must be connected to the key lock in the ignition.
Anyway, naturally, I get everything back together and it wont start. Cranks, has fuel pressure and spark, but wont start. *sigh*
May be starting a new thread soon..
Followed the steps in RAVE to take off the center console and then the interlock instructions to take apart the gear selector box and get the shifter out.
Here is the shifter.
Here is a view of the fin that goes in a grate which prevents you from shifting without pressing the button. The green arrow just indicates that the fin and inner rod should move freely up and down. Mine did not.
This last pic tries to show what was wrong and what I did to fix it.
The outer rod was slightly bent causing the inner rod to bind as it moved down. The yellow polygon shows an exaggerated version of the bend (it looks weird cause I drew it in the wrong direction so i had to flip it in paint). I removed the spring holder clip (green arrow) so that the inner rod could slide freely and moved it to the "up" position. I then put the end of a crowbar (only wedge device I had) and pressed it into the slot (blue arrow); perpendicular to, not inline with, the shifter. From there I tapped the crowbar in with the hammer, checked the slide action, tapped more, checked again, etc. until the inner rod moved freely. The slot wasnt quite parallel with the fin, so I tapped a big flathead screwdriver in a few times where the red arrow is. Put the spring clip back on, lubed it up, and it had nice smooth spring action again!
Got it all back together, and the shifter, button, and key work perfectly!
I think when the shifter is in park, the fin in my second pic activates the little switch referred to in my Does anyone know what this does? thread. That switch must be connected to the key lock in the ignition.
Anyway, naturally, I get everything back together and it wont start. Cranks, has fuel pressure and spark, but wont start. *sigh*
May be starting a new thread soon..
Last edited by pinkytoe69; 03-03-2012 at 07:14 PM.
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