Engine is Dead
#12
Well if it sounds from the upper part, I would pop off the vavle cover and take a look and see if anything looks out of the ordinary/filthy. As it could just be that the valves, rocker arms, or the vavle push rods may need some tending to. Can't hurt anything.
As far as the upper half rebuild, it wasn't too hard for me. Mostly time consuming due to the issues I have with my back, that and started in on it when it was starting into rainy season :P. Worst I had to deal with though was the head bolt torquing :P. Oh and I should mention ended up doing all this because of a missfire code on cyl 6. And the issue turned out to be a burned out spot on the head gasket between cyl 6 and cyl 8 :P
As far as the upper half rebuild, it wasn't too hard for me. Mostly time consuming due to the issues I have with my back, that and started in on it when it was starting into rainy season :P. Worst I had to deal with though was the head bolt torquing :P. Oh and I should mention ended up doing all this because of a missfire code on cyl 6. And the issue turned out to be a burned out spot on the head gasket between cyl 6 and cyl 8 :P
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oljohnboy (02-19-2016)
#14
I just remembered last night some more symptoms that may help. The clacking sound, when it first showed up, would come and go. I thought maybe a tappet may be jamming and I could give it a lot of gas and it would clear it out. It would be totally gone but after about a minute it returned (when accelerating or under load). This originally made me thing that a hydraulic tappet was failing. Any opinions on this extra symptom is welcome.
#15
My suggestion, go grab a stethoscope from harbor freight ($5) or any auto store. Run the motor and use it to probe where the noise is coming from. If it gets louder while touching the valve covers it's a problem with valves. If louder while touching oil pan or block, it's lower half.
I thought I had a spun bearing in the bottom end. I was able to determine it was a faulty lifter with the stethoscope. You can rebuild this motor for well under $1k. It won't be a perfect rebuild but it'll work.
I paid $500 for a shop to clean & inspect my long block, install new bearings and rings, & deck the heads. Plus about $300 for parts (bearings, rings, seals, gaskets, bolts). Then I spent over $2k rebuilding the rest of the truck.
If you have the time, you can do all of the work yourself minus decking the heads. A few tools and some elbow grease is all that's needed.
Since slipped liners are uncommon in these motor year ranges a simple rebuild should suffice. Run a few preliminary tests, get a couple tools, and knock it out in a couple weekends. Let me know if you need anything!
I thought I had a spun bearing in the bottom end. I was able to determine it was a faulty lifter with the stethoscope. You can rebuild this motor for well under $1k. It won't be a perfect rebuild but it'll work.
I paid $500 for a shop to clean & inspect my long block, install new bearings and rings, & deck the heads. Plus about $300 for parts (bearings, rings, seals, gaskets, bolts). Then I spent over $2k rebuilding the rest of the truck.
If you have the time, you can do all of the work yourself minus decking the heads. A few tools and some elbow grease is all that's needed.
Since slipped liners are uncommon in these motor year ranges a simple rebuild should suffice. Run a few preliminary tests, get a couple tools, and knock it out in a couple weekends. Let me know if you need anything!
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