Yet anopther failed inspection story... (front axle questions inside)
#1
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Western Hills of Maine, USA
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Yet anopther failed inspection story... (front axle questions inside)
Just failed my Maine State Inspection for vertical wear/play in my front wheels. So on to zee good stuff:
It looks like my swivel pins/bearings are badly worn, but I figured I would ask y'all before I tear into the old girl. I will be researching on my own, but would deeply appreciate any insights and advice you all might have.
Thanks again, as lurking here has been a goldmine already!
It looks like my swivel pins/bearings are badly worn, but I figured I would ask y'all before I tear into the old girl. I will be researching on my own, but would deeply appreciate any insights and advice you all might have.
- What parts do I need?
- What parts/procedures should I consider "while I'm in there"?
- What should I be careful not to screw up?
- What special tools should I consider?
Thanks again, as lurking here has been a goldmine already!
#2
Take a gander at this page, has all you need to fix em up; RovahFarm for all your new Land Rover Parts and Accessories
Not cheap, for the swivel ***** you can sometimes find decent ones in the bone yard or try one of the breakers that post up on our site.
You'll have to make the tool for setting swivel pin preload, needs a torque wrench on our trucks. Not hard to make with simple hand tools and some scrap 1/4" steel.
Not cheap, for the swivel ***** you can sometimes find decent ones in the bone yard or try one of the breakers that post up on our site.
You'll have to make the tool for setting swivel pin preload, needs a torque wrench on our trucks. Not hard to make with simple hand tools and some scrap 1/4" steel.
Last edited by ihscouts; 05-26-2015 at 05:03 PM.
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Doogwhan (09-16-2015)
#3
x2 on Trevor at Rovahfarm
Sounds like it's time for swivel pin kits.
On the swivel *****, if you're not in a hury you can repair them with JB weld and POR15 or epoxy. Land Rover FAQ - Repair & Maintenance - Series - Drivetrain - Swivel Ball Repair
You have to pull the hubs of course so inspect those bearings closely. If you need bearings you can get them locally, Timken SET37, SKF BR37, *** KIT38 or National A-37. I've used all of them and haven't seen any difference so get whatever is cheapest.
Use the Corteco RTC3511 hub seals from Rovahfarm.
You have to break the connection in the brake line so it would be a good time to slot the bracket on the top swivel pin so you don't have to open the hydraulics anymore for jobs like this, or replacing your rotors. Like this: https://landroverforums.com/forum/ge...acement-39705/
This post has a few tips on the hub seal installation; https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...76/#post259503
Sounds like it's time for swivel pin kits.
On the swivel *****, if you're not in a hury you can repair them with JB weld and POR15 or epoxy. Land Rover FAQ - Repair & Maintenance - Series - Drivetrain - Swivel Ball Repair
You have to pull the hubs of course so inspect those bearings closely. If you need bearings you can get them locally, Timken SET37, SKF BR37, *** KIT38 or National A-37. I've used all of them and haven't seen any difference so get whatever is cheapest.
Use the Corteco RTC3511 hub seals from Rovahfarm.
You have to break the connection in the brake line so it would be a good time to slot the bracket on the top swivel pin so you don't have to open the hydraulics anymore for jobs like this, or replacing your rotors. Like this: https://landroverforums.com/forum/ge...acement-39705/
This post has a few tips on the hub seal installation; https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...76/#post259503
The following users liked this post:
Doogwhan (09-16-2015)
#6
Just went through this about a month ago. I added up the parts I figured I would need to replace both ball swivels and a CV joint, came to just under $1,000... I ended up finding a Di land Rover about 50 miles away in a scrap yard with a newer style (Teflon coated) ***** and still was full of oil. I got the complete axle for $200 and they even put it on the trailer for me. The good part about doing this way is you don't have to take the ball apart, just unbolt at the axle tube flange and slide it off, and the replacement one on. no change to bearing preloading. (assuming it is good on the donor axle) Still have to remove the brake calipers and brake lines though.
#9
#10
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Western Hills of Maine, USA
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Thanks for the info!
Looks like buying D1 front axle and rehabbing it would be best, as it keeps me on the road as long as possible. I have a power bleeder, so the brake system isn't spooky. Does anyone have a preload bracket I can buy/rent later this summer? Finally, anyone have an ABS swivel ball they want to part with?
I will keep you all posted and will post pics.
Now the last in a series of dumb questions: Since there is no funky tire wear and no death wobble, is she safe to still drive for the next few weeks?
Looks like buying D1 front axle and rehabbing it would be best, as it keeps me on the road as long as possible. I have a power bleeder, so the brake system isn't spooky. Does anyone have a preload bracket I can buy/rent later this summer? Finally, anyone have an ABS swivel ball they want to part with?
I will keep you all posted and will post pics.
Now the last in a series of dumb questions: Since there is no funky tire wear and no death wobble, is she safe to still drive for the next few weeks?
Last edited by Doogwhan; 05-27-2015 at 10:51 AM.