Discovery I Talk about the Land Rover Discovery Series I within.

Discovery I Brake Job

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 07-26-2011, 05:51 PM
bfre49849's Avatar
Overlanding
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Ishpeming, Michigan
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Discovery I Brake Job

I am considering replacing all 4 rotors and pads on my 1999 Discovery I. Any recommendations for a source of parts? And suggestions for a successful outcome? The rotors are at 12mm and have some warping. The right front axle seal appears to be leaking as well so I plan to replace the seals.
 
  #2  
Old 07-26-2011, 06:05 PM
Savannah Buzz's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Savannah Georgia
Posts: 16,322
Likes: 0
Received 82 Likes on 79 Posts
Default

Do them all, pretty standard fare as far as brake jobs. Rotors, too. Rock Auto? Print out pages from the RAVE, and do one side at a time.
 
  #3  
Old 07-26-2011, 06:15 PM
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Pittsburgh PA suburbs.
Posts: 5,584
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes on 7 Posts
Default

To replace the rotors, you have to pull the hubs. So be prepared to possibly replace all the wheel bearings as well as the seals my friend. There are lots of write-ups on the web about doing this. You will at least need to service the wheel bearings if not replace them.

Look at Rovers North Website and you will see all the parts involved. I used their rotor and pad sets as well as their ProLine Calipers on my rear axle as my rotors were badly corroded.

A also bought new caliper mounting bolts from them as mine werwe also in pretty bad condition. And their "fixing kit" which copntains all new springs and all the little pieces needed to redo the pads. That was about 4 years ago and my pads and rotors are still in great shape. Their kit is about 100 bucks per axle. I had purchased a set of new bearings for the rear axle, but mine were in good shape so I just repacked them and still have the bearings on the shelf for future use.

There is a large nut you have to remove, they and several others sell an adapter for removing the nut. You should drain and replace the brake fluid as well if it is not really clean. A turkey baster works well to suck out the oid fluid from the reservoir.

Be sure and bleed the air out when you finish to have a firm pedal.
 
  #4  
Old 07-26-2011, 07:03 PM
thehun's Avatar
Winching
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 643
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Its really stupid easy .... might as well do the wheel bearings too
 
  #5  
Old 07-26-2011, 07:07 PM
Savannah Buzz's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Savannah Georgia
Posts: 16,322
Likes: 0
Received 82 Likes on 79 Posts
Default

And you will be impressed with how large those bearings are compared other vehicles you may have worked on.
 
  #6  
Old 07-26-2011, 08:51 PM
Long Haul's Avatar
Recovery Vehicle
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Quarryville, Pa
Posts: 916
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Hardest part of the job is getting the old hub out of old rotor, nothing a brass BFH and a few blocks of wood wont take care of. Just make sure you clean the face of the old hub real good and use some antiseize before you install them on the new rotor.
 
  #7  
Old 07-26-2011, 10:53 PM
wheelgarage's Avatar
Recovery Vehicle
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 1,033
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

It took me longer to clean all the crap off then actually replacing the seals, rotors and pads...
 
  #8  
Old 07-27-2011, 06:53 AM
antichrist's Avatar
Baja
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Georgia, USA
Posts: 5,232
Received 51 Likes on 44 Posts
Default

I've had good results from Wagner from O'Reilly Auto Parts, though Amazon is actually cheaper.
Hub bearings are available locally, Timken SET37, SKF BR37, *** KIT38 or National A-37.


If you off-road use hub seal RTC3511
Name:  RTC3511-1.jpg
Views: 130
Size:  41.4 KB

While the front caliper is off remove the bracket for the flex hose and slot it, so you don't have to break open the brakes next time you replace the rotor, hub seal or service the bearings.
Name:  D1_front_hose_bracket.jpg
Views: 129
Size:  17.1 KB

If you do them all in the right order you can use a front drive member to recess the seal the correct 4mm
Name:  seating-hubseal.jpg
Views: 115
Size:  44.0 KB
Name:  hubseal-recess.jpg
Views: 119
Size:  19.5 KB

x2 on the Never-Seez on the hub if you have the rotor off.
Name:  never_seeze_hub-rotor.jpg
Views: 181
Size:  42.1 KB

Caliper bolts take Loctite 270
Name:  loct-tite_sealant.jpg
Views: 129
Size:  27.7 KB

If you don't have a bearing packer a needle grease gun adapter works well for making sure you get grease in between the bearing rollers.
Name:  greasing-cone.jpg
Views: 148
Size:  38.5 KB
Name:  cone_greased.jpg
Views: 132
Size:  40.4 KB
Then coat the outside well.
 
  #9  
Old 07-27-2011, 07:53 AM
fishEH's Avatar
Camel Trophy
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Lake Villa, IL
Posts: 4,077
Received 225 Likes on 194 Posts
Default

Buy a $5 bearing packers.
The kits from AB are great. They come with new rotors, pads, pad hardware, washers, seals, etc. Last time I checked they were $240 and about $300. You'll also want s pair of snap ring pliers. An impact gun makes getting the bolts holding the rotors and hub together very easy.
 
  #10  
Old 07-27-2011, 09:05 AM
bfre49849's Avatar
Overlanding
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Ishpeming, Michigan
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Thanks to all for the great posts and suggestions!
 


Quick Reply: Discovery I Brake Job



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:19 PM.