Like some on this forum, I had an intermittent working blower that finally died. One of the fixes (for some) from past threads was to install a new fuse box. Somehow the connection through the fuseblock to fuses 6 & 7 fails. Fuse 6 (25 amp) is rear A\C blower, if equipped, and fuse 7 (30 amp) is the front A\C blower. Both of these were dead on mine as well.

I looked at the engine bay fuseblock, also. Fuselink 4 was good, however, the connector (on same fuseblock) it sends power to was dead at the Brown\w Pink wire. This wire goes to fuses 6 & 7 in the passenger fuseblock.

I ended up running a bypass wire to each fuse directly from fuselink 4 (cold side, next to side of fuseblock), with an individual blade fuse holder on each wire. I put a spade connector on the ends and tried plugging in to the cold side of slots 6 & 7. It still didn't work. This fuseblock was bad, also.

I pulled the fuseblock and attached directly to the wires out (cold side) on the back. For fuse 6 (rear blower) pull connector 585, first in line, brown with three wires. You want the Yellow\Green wire. Pull the white retainer clip and dig out this wire with a small screwdriver. It has a spade receptor, of which I attached my 25 amp bypass wire. Put clip back and replace connector. The next connector back is 584, pull it. It is also brown, but has five wires in it. You want the Brown\Red wire. Pull it out the same way. I connected it to the 30 amp bypass wire. Fix and replace the connector. Button everything up.

Success! I now have cold air blowing, front and back. Less than $20 for wire, individual fuseblocks, and connectors.

 

Hello, I was successful in making the wiring changes and the air is blowing now. My problem now is the truck will not start. Any ideas?

 

Was the truck starting fine before working on the blower wiring?

If so you may have a loose connector, or blown fuse somewhere.

Did you work on the passenger fuseblock only?

 

Whew! The problem was the AUX connector under the hood. I replaced the blade and did not have it seated as far as it should have been so the ignition would not turn over. I secured it snuggly and all is good $25 later!

 

Sorry to resurrect an old thread but this might be my issue so I have some questions.
I just rebuilt the upper part of my 4.0.
After I got it running I noticed the fan vibrated loudly but it was working. I assumed a mouse had made a home in the motor and I was correct. I cleaned it all out and it was working fine. One morning last week it decided to stop working.
I have power to the blower motor and when the blower motor is wired directly to the battery it runs fine.
Is this the same issue you were having?
Also, my AC is not working but the HVAC head unit does not indicate any fault code related?

 

If fuses and relays are good and fan doesn't work wide open (no resistor, straight feed), works with direct power to fan, then likely bad interior fuseblock. Bypass as described. If still not working, may be bad fuseblock under hood. Wire direct to the fuselink as described.

Typically it's the interior fuseblock, only fuses 6 & 7. A crack in the solder fails under load, but shows 12v without a load.

 

Dude! (my son would say that) I was so hoping you would respond
Thank you!

 

2002 Disco II. My heater blower stopped working at all speeds and fuse 7 was dead on both sides of the fuse. I took the fuse block apart and found a bad soldier joint.

The 3 large spade connectors on one end of the board were carefully inspected and found to be well soldiered but no continuity from the middle spade to fuse 7. On close inspection, the soldier joint found right in the middle of the fuse side of the circuit board, exactly between the two rows of fuse sockets, was cracked. It had to be examined with a light and 7x magnifier but it was clearly not the smooth, perfect, Hershey's Kiss like all the other soldier joints. poking it with a test probe made the continuity test suddenly start working between the middle large spade and fuses 6 & 7 but any amp load would have made it fail again. The joint was really contaminated and burnt from arcing because it took a fair amount of heat and flux before I could get a dab of soldier to flow properly between the post and the surrounding circuit board trace. It was all back together and working perfectly in about one hour of work.

Pulling the fuse block out far enough was barely possible because of the short length of the wires. I had to remove the foam sound deadening block below the steering column and had to use a screw driver to help release the tabs in the center of each connector then carefully pry out each connector. I took a picture of the fuse and relay arrangement with my phone to aid in reinstalling the fuses and relays on the bench.

 

how did you get the tabs off the side of the fuse block to be able to access the circuit board? I removed all of the fuses and relays and everything holding the block together but the tabs aren’t popping out. Was there some special trick?