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Old 07-03-2011, 04:13 PM
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Location: Enfield NH
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Exclamation Need help! Unfreezing brake system in 89 Range Rover.

I gather that by sheer lack of use and or storage, the brake system can freeze up over time. What I need to know is how to address the problem. Is repair a matter of flushing and bleeding the brake system? Or does it require replacing all brake lines, calipers, disk/drum rotors, pads and the brake master cylinder?

Found a decent 89 Range Rover for sale. It's well within my budget and has a professional engine rebuild as well as many other new parts and repairs. Just needs new battery and the brakes are frozen. I would like to buy the rig but not if fixing the brake system is gonna cost to much. Please help.
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Old 07-03-2011, 04:19 PM
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all the lines and the brakes and possibly the abs modulator.

careful, the pumps aren't cheap.
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Old 07-04-2011, 10:44 PM
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I think what he is referring to is just the brakes locked up from sitting a while. I specialize in restoring cars and with getting "barn finds" up and running, frozen brakes is one of the most common issues. It doesn't have anything to do with the lines or modulators (although they can be bad from sitting too.) There are two things that can cause your brakes to lock up. The first and most common (98% of the time) is that the pad/shoes rusts and corrodes to the rotor/drum. The second and least likely is that the caliper/wheel cylinder seizes up. Depending on the climate that you are in and how long the truck has been sitting you may be able to free them up by driving it a bit or towing it slowly down the road. If you can, spray the rotors and pads with WD40 or PB Blaster the day before. It it kill your pads but they probably already need changing anyway. **Note, only do this if you are towing or trailering the Rover, DO NOT drive it after spraying them. You can also pull the wheels and remove the pads. You will probably need a heavy dead blow hammer to get them off. Once you free them up you should be good to go. This method takes the most time but also allows you to drive it home when you are done. Let me know if you have any issues. I have run into this on dozens of vehicles from motorcycles to semi trucks.
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Old 07-10-2011, 12:50 AM
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I would do what Krazz has suggested, especially if it has sat for awhile. One thing that likes to fail on these rigs is the accumulator. We need to know a little bit more about the symptoms. When you say "seized" do you mean no brake power at all, a hard pedal, a soft pedal, etc?
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Old 07-13-2011, 12:15 AM
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Hey, I think I bought the truck you are taking about!! is this it?
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File Type: jpg DSC03259.jpg (61.6 KB, 5 views)
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1989 RR details TBA
2000 DII 92K = The Antichrist

Equipped:
RTE 2" coils
Firestone Destination AT's 255/70r18 (32.1")



Work Completed:
Head Gaskets ----> RAVE IS A MUST
Drive shaft rebuilt ---> nightmare
Starter ---> easy
Water pump/hoses ---> easy
Bypassed throttle body heater plate ---> super easy and cheap
02's ---> easy
Headliner ---> more time consuming than anything
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Old 07-13-2011, 08:00 PM
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His profile says he is in NH and you are in TN. Thats a pretty long distance to go for a '89 Rover that needs work.
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1997 4.6 HSE Vitesse Ferrari Red 143k
1998 Volvo XC70 162k
2001 Audi A4 Quattro 131k
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Old 07-14-2011, 12:44 AM
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Uh yeah... I had it shipped. Thanks for your 2 cents.
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"If it has tits or tires it is going to give you trouble."

1989 RR details TBA
2000 DII 92K = The Antichrist

Equipped:
RTE 2" coils
Firestone Destination AT's 255/70r18 (32.1")



Work Completed:
Head Gaskets ----> RAVE IS A MUST
Drive shaft rebuilt ---> nightmare
Starter ---> easy
Water pump/hoses ---> easy
Bypassed throttle body heater plate ---> super easy and cheap
02's ---> easy
Headliner ---> more time consuming than anything
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Old 07-14-2011, 12:44 AM
 
 
 
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89, 98, bleeding, brake, brakes, frozen, land, lock, pedal, range, rover, tricks, unfreezing


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