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Thank you @GavinC and @BritCars for your replies and info! (I definitely told Bellevue to go kick rocks, and after speaking with the service advisor directly at Lynnwood, he basically told me without directly saying it where his managers could overhear or whatever - that the "menu options" of service they offer are 'confusing' for the customer - but heavily implying he knew they were loaded with BS. They will do what the Passport to Service requires, and their typical multipoint, and reset service indicator or I can follow what Gavin gave me, for less than half of what was the lowest price on the 'menu' of options. So I'm happy with them, for now........)
Gavin - we got snow (sort of, at least what greater Seattle area calls snow) in Marysville and south into Seattle. I don't know where you are exactly but I see all your snow / mountain pictures on here and Facebook group for New Defenders. Now, if only all the other people around our area actually knew how to drive in this slushy cr@p!
Thank you @GavinC and @BritCars for your replies and info! (I definitely told Bellevue to go kick rocks, and after speaking with the service advisor directly at Lynnwood, he basically told me without directly saying it where his managers could overhear or whatever - that the "menu options" of service they offer are 'confusing' for the customer - but heavily implying he knew they were loaded with BS. They will do what the Passport to Service requires, and their typical multipoint, and reset service indicator or I can follow what Gavin gave me, for less than half of what was the lowest price on the 'menu' of options. So I'm happy with them, for now........)
Gavin - we got snow (sort of, at least what greater Seattle area calls snow) in Marysville and south into Seattle. I don't know where you are exactly but I see all your snow / mountain pictures on here and Facebook group for New Defenders. Now, if only all the other people around our area actually knew how to drive in this slushy cr@p!
I'm in Kirkland.
Made an aborted effort to hit up Alpental today.
Mudslide on highway, and multiple highway crashes closing the road meant having to turn around. Power outages, and prolonged avalanche controls at the pass anyway so all in all the weather gods didn't cooperate. Sucks. I've been eyeing the weather all week.
Hey Gavin,
I did a lot of the same work you’ve done on my 2020 P400 X, including the transfer case fluid with the same IYK500010 fluid as well as on our 2019 Range Rover full size autobiography 5.0. I did the transfer case fluid double flush in both of them when we bought them both used and then did them each about a year later.
About two months ago we ended up selling them both and got 2024 Defender 110 V8. I started to develop a vibration on the highway under load, as soon as I would let off the gas it would go away. Also began to get very clunky coming to a stop so I got it into the dealer due to it being in warranty, and they replaced the transfer case due to the pinion seal separating, allowing the fluid to leak out causing it to run almost dry.
Transfer cases seem to be fairly commonly going bad, and they mentioned they see this type of failure often also.
My main takeaway is that they filled the new xfer case with LR160851, however it seems the replacement transfer case is for 2023 up defenders regardless of engine, and 2022 up discovery, 2022 up RR/RRsport.
it physically looks slightly different than my 2020 defender xfer case did also and has additional heat shields around it.
It looks different but with the added heat shielding it's hard to know. Perhaps the V8 have a different T-case. I have no knowledge on that. Maybe someone more knowlegable on these things will chime in.
As for the fluid, I sourced OEM and confirmed the fluids as correct with landleaping.com. They were very helpful with outlining the correct fluids for everything in the drive train. Perhaps a newer part number on the fluid has evolved over time.
It looks different but with the added heat shielding it's hard to know. Perhaps the V8 have a different T-case. I have no knowledge on that. Maybe someone more knowlegable on these things will chime in.
As for the fluid, I sourced OEM and confirmed the fluids as correct with landleaping.com. They were very helpful with outlining the correct fluids for everything in the drive train. Perhaps a newer part number on the fluid has evolved over time.
2020-2023MY have the permanent 4WD with an electronically-controlled center differential in the transfer case. 2023.5MY and newer models (and all ROW I6 diesels) have a different transfer case that swapped the center differential with a multiplate clutch pack that acts like a center diff, as well as adding torque-on-demand where the front axle can be fully disconnected for increased efficiency.
Also, this is the first time I've heard of the old-style transfer case going bad on a Defender. It has been the same basic design since the LR3 came out in 2004.
Good morning everyone,
I'm chiming in on KevinC's topic, and I thank him for his valuable assistance with maintenance.
I need to change the transfer case oil, 3.0D,
so the transfer case doesn't have a differential, but it does have a multi-disc clutch and oil pump.
The Topix procedure involves removing the pump body and draining the oil reservoir.
Then the level must be checked at two points, one traditional and one above the multi-disc clutch oil pump.
Then the procedure involves using Topix Cloud with a function called "oil change reset" (TCCM).
I'd like to know if this procedure is the same as the gap function called "pump vented" (TCCM).
I don't want to waste another 80 euros on a one-hour subscription to Topix Cloud.
Does anyone have experience?
I'm taking mine in for the 16k service in two weeks. The dealer quoted a little over $1k (Land Rover Riverside).
Socal price. I got pretty much same price from LR Newport Beach and I believe it's same with 4 year which include oil change, interior air element, cabin filter, brake flush.
I think all the parts will come out about $500ish.
