Yes. The octa uses the BMW 4.4 V8 and while there is a dipstick tube so in theory you can vacuum extract, they (bmw and also LR) do not recommend it for that engine as it may not extract all the oil and leaves residual due to the engine design. Turbo engines often have pressurized feed lines which don't drain through the dipstick - and baffles in the sump too. So the service requirement for octa is explicit on sump plug draining

The Jag/LR engines in recent times have been mostly done via vacuum extraction.

 

Accessory drive belt and viscous fan belts. Aka serpentine and fan belts. Step by step in this thread.

This serpentine belt is due at 63,000 miles. The fan not till 84,000 but im there so will do both

I’m at 67,500. A bit of an oversight but the belts seemed to be in good shape.

Tricky task. I managed to damage a fragile little coolant line which I will fix in the morning. JB weld will hopefully sort it out till I get the replacement pipe.

*Total cost about $100 for parts and tools and about 3-4 hours work

* excludes cost of my clumsiness $68 for new part.

 

After not one, but two self induced coolant leaks in a week, I've decided that I may as well do a full coolant drain and fill when I go to replace the lightly used, soon to be up for sale at a bargain price on eBay, parts.

One auxiliary radiator and one coolant bleeder hose.

Got myself some OEM coolant from Napa. The Havoline XLC specified in the user manual. Less than $20 a gallon.

2 gallons of concentrate and 2 gallons of distilled water will be plenty for a full drain and fill. (13-14 qts I think)
Sourced a used radiator from eBay and am awaiting an OEM coolant hose from FCPEuro after the aftermarket one I'd ordered off amazon arrived bent in a box 3 sizes too small for it.

My repaired parts are holding up well. The hose especially. The radiator that was fixed trailside has a tiny leak but is very workable. JB weld high heat for he hose and compression of the damage radiator fin. Blobbed some weld on there too but no improvement.

Universal Vacuum filler tool from Amazon $50 was added to the arsenal. No loaner tools available for this job.

With 70,000 miles on the odometer, this is a bit too early for a scheduled drain and fill but I figure it can't hurt to be early given the use profile.

 

Decided on just a partial drain rather than a full 2 gallons drained approx

The new bleeder hose ($60 from FCP Euro) was a super simple job

Once the system was drained the hose just pops out easy. Very clever design.

A used auxiliary radiator from
a breakers yard was about $90.

New OeM coolant. Napa Auto has it.
$20 for a gallon of concentrate.



draining


Radiator drain plug.

repaired old on the left. New on the right.


Out with the old. The radiator hoses are tricky to remove.




New Radiator



Couldn’t get my vacuum filler to do its thing.

 

New Front Brake Pads Swapped out.

 

 

Hey ​​​​@GavinC thanks a lot for this whole thread. As my 2020 HSE 110 is out of warranty, and I need something to do when I visit my in-laws with a big garage in Bakersfield, I've been gearing up for various 63k services. Doing things in stages of course, but wanted to ask about your switch to the Castrol oil and 3rd party filter. Are these performing the same and OK for me to implement at 57k?

 

That specific Castrol oil is the OEM oil - it is filled with that at the factory, and that is what most dealers use when performing oil changes.

 

Hey no worries. Glad my ramblings are of some use to you.

I switched to OEM Castrol oil as it’s now the cheapest available.

I switched to aftermarket filters after 30000 miles or so and all
os well. I think the Hengst brand filter may be the same one that is supplied to LR. So it’s OE without the increased price tag.

Perhaps I’m doing a disservice to the filter nerds and designers but I think the tech is pretty basic and universal across the board.

The oils are all meeting the same spec so no real changes there either. I always just get the cheapest in spec option.

I’m tighter than a Scotsman’s sporran.

 

Thanks! Amazing that Walmart is the place to find something that's kinda specific. No luck at actual auto parts stores in LA area.