Hard to find on this side of the Atlantic. Does anyone know if they (or any of the others) are compatible with the rock sliders?

 

All the Matzker underbody protection is unavailable. They are allegedly waiting for TUV approval in Europe, they've been waiting for over 2 years... I wonder if they will ever manufacture that stuff. I wrote them off long ago.

That lone Asfir front skid plate only fits diesel engined D110s. They have no plans to develop anything else for the petrol engines.

As I was installing the Voyager rock sliders, I noticed the two fuel tanks are really at risk down there and hang pretty low, that would be my next concern when rock crawling. One of mine (as well as one of the exhaust silencers) already has a decent sized dent on it, probably not enough to affect fuel capacity, but... I witnessed someone perforating a LR4 fuel tank on the rocks, not fun. Hopefully someone designs a light weight (aluminum) skid plate for them soon here in North America.

 

These look the bees knees. Are they made of steel or some other tough material?

Was the installation tricky. Seems like the Tuffant option is more plug and play. No riv-nuts or new trim pieces needed. Perhaps I have my wires crossed. If freight to USA isn't in the sell an organ territory I may go this route.

Thanks again for the pictures. Any changes since on the underbody felt. Reinstall. @gschmitt that reinsatll of the felt is amazing. I'd love to do something similar but I suspect I lack the abilities.

 

Agree. These Tuffant sliders do look perfect. Love to see underside pics / is felt gone or stays? Etc.

 

Yep. The fuel tank cradle is definitely vulnerable. I have bashed in both sides pretty badly . I am building a skid to protect from further damage using aluminum and UHMW. Will be looking at a production model soon

 

Rock on!! I've been wanting something beefier down there, just don't want to pay the shipping. The only thing that I'm even considering is a long range (Long Ranger) fuel tank. They are "allegedly" lower profile than the current deck, but just in case: PLEASE make it compatible....(knowing that's like an impossibly vague ask!)

 

I'm in the middle of the install now! I can see the end in sight. I only had an afternoon this weekend and won't be able to get to finish it for another couple weekends, so now's time to ask a bunch of intermission questions to @Yeeeeeeha , @GCSchmidt , @Tartan , @TrioLRowner and anyone else who's installed the Lucky8/Rhino sliders.

First off, those instructions were "weak" for lack of a better profane term. I'm handy enough around a wrench to figure it out, but cautious enough to be peeved about them. A LOT of snafu's that I've had to unwind because they are vague at best. My favorite: "remove various hangers for the felt" that may get in the way of the sliders. When you're dealing with something that heavy, in the backyard under a shade tree alone, trying to hang it is NOT the time to discover one more that needs to be removed... I dealt with it. Anyway, afterwards I'll do my own right up with tips that others should benefit from (like there's a proper orientation for the trim bracket!).

Anyway, several questions:
1. I've installed them and am working on the trim. I have mudflaps and am going that route. @Yeeeeeeha - up there on Post #18, I'm about to embark on this journey. I'll test my new sliders with a lift and pull the tire. That WAS tight during the removal and looks like it should be a great add. What is that silver bracket that you put on the mudflap? Did you remove it from the Defender and then put it on the Mudflap? I don't see that.


2. How did you line up that lame bracket? The holes are HUGE and there's a ton of play in there. Does it matter? I'm talking about the Rhino one that replaces the trim support, not the metal one on the mudflap.


3. Much of my delay was scheduling the Line-X. That was a BRILLIANT suggestion. I can see how it would be a huge pita without it and slick. However, not sure of the orientation of the step inserts. I think it is the Rhino engraving up front. True?
4. These step liners seem very short. Could be because I have them as close to the body of the Defender as they would go. Are yours further outboard? I may try this next. Small thing, but hey I'm in the middle of the progress.
5. This is the lamest question I have ever made. I really hate the hardware that comes with these. I'm likely going to replace many of them (full write up afterwards). Those that tie the step inserts to the u-channels seem to be bonded. I need to take them off to adjust them and they seemed seized. Is there something about these locknuts that I don't get? I thought maybe the thread sizes were wrong, but maybe they are "heat activated". I'm likely to just cut them off or try a heat gun on the nylon first, but wow - I've never experienced a locknut like those. I feel like amateur hour! (The good news is that they shorted me two bolts/nuts so there's that many fewer to remove and replace).
6. I've replaced the hardware for the sill (anodized black stainless with longer reach) and am going to replace the hardware for the step inserts (again black stainless, but this time with larger heads and shorter length). Need to get the old hardware off (see the frustration w/ #5). I almost think the thread pitch is different on the nylon nuts. They were a BEAR to install and so seized I'm going to try to cut them off without scarring up the fresh Line-X if I don't get any tips re: #5.

Anyway, I've pulled an engine out of a Ford with less profanity than working with these sliders. Heck, rebuilding a Series tranny seemed easier. For those reading the sit-comm, stay tuned for the next episode!

 

I think I have #1. This bracket....


Is the same as the one currently attached to that weird hulking aluminum block. When I pull the tire, I'll try to remove it. You're basically saying remove it first. I may debate that since I'm just re-installing the mudflaps and that hole should already be in there. I'll do the carving of the mudflap first to allow it to fit over the edge of the slider.

 

Very helpful post Grouse. Sounds like I'd be all at sea with the installation of these.

I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed sometimes and really benefit from some half decent instructions. There does seem to be something of a right of passage to the install of these. Best of luck with it. I have no doubt the results will speak for themselves.

 

Just watched a great tip re: how to take the nylon lock nuts off. Just hold a soldering iron to the end of the bolt to heat it up. As the Nylon starts to heat up/melt, it's MUCH easier to remove. Heck, I should have known that heat helps loosen everything! I'll take pics of my results. If I catch the Defender on fire, I'll take LOTS of pics....