Hard to tell from pics, but it looks like some folks are putting the car in off road mode and then getting under the car without stands in place on all four corners. That is a very dangerous proposition as these cars can have a mind of their own and drop down to access height when you least expect it. Might not end well as it can get very tight if you’re in the wrong place. For your safety, put stands at all four corners if you’re relying on the air suspension to give you extra room to work.

 

induction bolt heater is much better for this.

 

True that on lack of reliability of off-road mode! Also, I find a LOT of reasons to buy new tools. I'll pass on this opportunity<g>. For ten bolts, I'll try the soldering iron and if that doesn't work, I'll break out the good old "nut splitter". I hate going that route if I can avoid it.

 

At a minimum, open at least two of the doors so the logic of the system will not attempt to lower the vehicle -- and also put some logs at each corner to keep the vehicle from lowering.

 

Those are the cleanest sliders I have seen! I was looking at the Off Road Development ones but it is impossible to get any answers from those people. Can I pick your Brain on yours?
Do you need a new plate behind the doors at the bottom, like the Lucky 8's?
Do you have a picture with your doors open?
Thank you in advance

 

End of the journey!! Wow, that took a long time. Most of that was my inability to commit the time over several weekends. So, here's my update notes to all the folks who have installed the Lucky8 Sliders from Rhino (Link) with the inserts (Link). This was a crazy pita. Not because of the product, mainly because of the lame-arsed instructions which are not only vague, but worse - at times incorrect. Here's my attempt to fill in the blanks from all the other write ups about this.

First off, a number of links for you to use:
Land Rover Accessory Instructions for Side Steps (Link) - Marginally useful.
Land Rover Accessor Instructions for Mud Flaps (Link) - Very useful if you have mudflaps
PowerfulUk video on installing side steps ( ) - Good to see how they peel out the trim & the wheel arches.
This forum Slider thread #1 (Link) - This thread started by @Yeeeeeeha .
This forum Slider thread #2 (Link) - started by @TrioLRowner
This forum Slider thread #3 (Link) - started by @TrioLRowner warning of instruction problems
This forum Slider thread #4 (Link)
The instructions for the sliders (Link) - WARNING: See below for corrections & tips.

Before you start, order these things:
Trim Clips for sill trim behind front wheel ( )
Trip Clips for wheel arch trim in front of rear wheel (Link)
Cordless driver set - HIGHLY recommend something like this (Link)
Replacement bolts for sill if you don't want shiny on black ( ). 12mm or 16mm will do it if you only order one.
Replacement bolts for the inserts ( ). M8 x 30.
Replacement lock nuts for above ( ).

Now for a walk thru of the instructions for my tips & what I recommend.
- For starters, get it Line-X'd! As others have mentioned, I think this helps protect it a LOT as well as (imo) makes it look better.
Pg 2 - Remove the trim. Watch the PowerfulUk video above. I used to hate the Defender self destruct clips. I now have an appreciation for them. It helps save the expensive trim, so I'm all in. Make sure you have extras on hand. See the link above.
- If you have mudflaps, remove the three bottom screws (10mm) but not the two on the trim. If you REALLY want to do this the easy way, just pull the tire and pull the felt. There are three tabs you will have to pull out (see below). I did it both ways. It took the same amount of time to pull the tire/trim as to fiddle with the first set. I was just able to do it with a lot less profanity.
Pg 3 - Remember this at the reinstall: if those top white column tabs don't fit, they do slide inboard/outboard. Make sure they are fully seated first. You'll have to replace the bottom with two new trim clips (see link above).
Pg 6 - Again, watch the PowerfulUk video for a walk thru. Also another "remember this" comment. When you go to put in the new sill trim, I found it super easy to just slide the sill trim between the body and this trim so do NOT reattach this until the end. Also, order clips per above if yours were destroyed. Very likely.
Pg 7 - Go nuts here. None of this will be reused and you will have an explosion of 12 trim clips that are designed for 1 use.
Pg 8 - I HIGHLY recommend the use of a cordless screwdriver with the appropriately sized cordless driver socket (I think it was 13mm). This will save you a TON of time. Especially the next step.
Pg 10 - I was reasonably impressed with the OEM protection of the air tank and the sides. Not as beefy as sliders, of course, but for the normal crowd - it was there.
Pg 11 - This was terrible: "remove various supports". Would have appreciated a count. Sorry, I didn't either!! Look in there and pull EVERYTHING that isn't used. I had a couple that I had to remove as I was installing the sliders and it was a HUGE pita, so check this multiple times.
Pg 12 - Play What's Different and make sure your under body looks like the right hand pic.
SKIP AHEAD TO PAGE 17!! Do that now. You have GOT to take this bolt out before you put all the crap under there. It is in a far out of the way spot and it needs to be removed before the install. Worse, this bolt is shorter than the others you will use so throw it away. Throw it far away. Trust me, you do not want to accidentally reuse this like my dumb arsed self did. In my photos below, I'll show you which one this is.
Pg 13 - There are many ways to put that 125 pound slider up there. I had none of them! I figured the Egyptians put up the Pyramids, so I could do this. I used a floor jack and two jack stands and a lot of back & forth to get it close. Then I did a new Yoga move combining a bench press, leg levers and a ratchet to start anchoring it. You do NOT want to do that. Get someone with a weak mind and strong back to help you if you go that route.
Pg 14 - Measure them and make sure that the short one by the wheel is NOT used.
Pg 17 - Aligning that spacer under there was a HUGE pita. I used painters tape to hold it temporarily. Worked like a champ. This is the front side, so pay attention to this.
Pg 19 - This is fiddly (a technical term) but it does fit. Do NOT tighten all the sliders or the support bolts yet. I had them perhaps a 1/4 way to go.
Pg 20 - Go to town. Snug them down. I'm a torque nut and wish they had torque settings.
Pg 23 - As others have reported, this is 100% BACKWARDS. If your sill does not line up with the holes from the clips, you have the wrong sill. First, slide it in there to confirm which holes to use. Then use a sharpie to mark the holes and pull the sill trim back out. As mentioned above, it is easier to slide it between the rear wheel trim and the body panel to get it in there. It will rub a bit, but nowhere that matters and it wont' scratch anything.
Pg 26 - Plain screws on black metal drives me bat****. Also, the included bolts are about as short as you can possibly get. Replace these with the stainless black anodized ones in the links above.
Pg 29 - This bracket IS directional. It is off-set to one side. Make sure that the right side is flush or your trim will not attach. Flip it around until you get it correct. Don't ask me how I know this.
Pg 30 - Replace the clips per above seeing above links. If you have mud-flaps, now's the time to carve from @Yeeeeeeha 's thread. I'll add more below in the photos. I STRONGLY recommend that you remove the tire & open up the felt to put this back in. It is so much easier that way.
Pg 31 - Not needed if you have mudflaps.

If you have the inserts, there are no instructions. At least for me. Here's some tips from my experience.
- Do NOT put them as in board as possible. Or as close to the truck. There's not enough material. You'll have to fiddle with it, but about 1/2 over the tubes seemed right for me.
- The Rhino goes to the front
- The straps around the tubes did not work for me. I blame it on the Line-X but the reality is it could be the quality of the straps.
- Do NOT use the accompanying hardware. I was shorted two, so maybe you'll have extras. See the links above for M8. One, they are already black anodized stainless. Second, I had a CRAZY tough time with the nylon lock nuts they had.

Random photos with some tips:

Official JLR felt trim holder-backer... Good view of the mudflap. Agree with Yeeeha to pull that bracket off first to attach. Hard to get a 10mm into it, but it works.

These three trim clips to pull back the wheel felt.

I found that you didn't need to grind deep, but wide helped a lot.

Rhino goes to the FRONT! Make sure the insert overhangs the tube all around or it will rattle.

 

I just took delivery on the TuffAnt sliders. Will install tomorrow. Regarding the attachment bolts. While an exposed head is at greater risk of being sheared off than one that is flush, these seem to be pretty rugged and there are 11 of them to a side with solid conical washer. I included a US quarter for comparison.

 

I think it’s just ok, not preferred I rather have the bolts recessed. I got the lucky 8 ones they’re going to be here tomorrow.

 

Awesome! Did mine this weekend and I'm pretty sure that little bracket replacent for the trim took about the same amount of time as the actual slider install. Gave up after spending way too much time on them and when I looked again the following morning it hit me they were directional.

 

@Migs8416 - Obviously I'm not the only one who was punished with the vague instructions! I think there's balance in the universe. All the folks who had things in the correct orientation the first time were offset by me doing everything wrong the first time! I think that's why I should serve as their technical writing QA...