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Did you have to use speaker-level inputs (tap the wires going to the speakers) or were they able to pull a line-level output somewhere (RCA jacks)?
I used to run a custom shop that did car audio, remote start, alarms, etc so this is pretty simple for me. Only a few vehicles have the line-level option, usually with an aftermarket adapter/interface. Did a quick Google search but couldn't find one for the new Defender yet.
Allegedly I have an update for you. Installer said they didn’t have a line out RCA. They took the signal from the analog wire going to the under seat sub, used the RCA converter, and fed it into the amp.
The subwoofer level in the Audio options of the Pivi controls the new sub really well. I had a **** that controls gain under my steering column added but I have a choice to control with Pivi or the **** I’ve now discovered.
Hope it helps.
Cheers,
K
Last edited by A Faceless Man; Jun 14, 2021 at 02:03 PM.
Allegedly I have an update for you. Installer said they didn’t have a line out RCA. They took the signal from the analog wire going to the under seat sub, used the RCA converter, and fed it into the amp.
The subwoofer level in the Audio options of the Pivi controls the new sub really well. I had a **** that controls gain under my steering column added but I have a choice to control with Pivi or the **** I’ve now discovered.
Hope it helps.
Cheers,
K
QUOTE
Thank you for that!
It's pretty much what I expected but it does help. Definitely good to know that the level control in Pivi Pro works well. That can go either way and it's much nicer that way.
Hi AvoTow. There’s not much to see to be honest, but here’s a pic. Essentially they needed to get to .98 cuft (sealed) for this sub. Of course, your specs may vary depending on what you listen to. I like serious punch you can feel in rock kick drums and this delivers above and beyond. “This Means War” could be a showpiece for this setup—it does not disappoint.
In terms of construction is is mostly MDF but I believe since they were a bit shy of their cuft target they had to reinforce with fiberglass. The box can be removed whenever access underneath for the various modules is necessary, but it’s a tight fit so I wasn’t up to yanking it out at the moment (sorry). The box is rectangular—nothing special about the shape—but the bottom of the box has MDF material extending longer on each end to precisely allow the box to stand off the bottom at level. The sub is down firing and the stand off allows low profile sub travel. The entire area underneath is deadened with Dynamat. Just about all contact areas between the deck lid and the area underneath vibrate like crazy so Dynamat pieces were added to every contact area and it’s silent now.
One more thing: under the standoffs there’s room for the OEM jack, and as you can see to the left is the bag that contains the integrated compressor accessories as well as the lug nut lock. I’ve stored the original styrofoam jack holder away in case I decide to sell the car.
Cheers,
K
Where did you mount the Amp. Looking to do the same nice install. Thanks!
