Any DRL failure info welcome
I also bought it at the link on about 2024 Jan from antparts.com. Still working fine now. We must add heat dissipation glue between the LED board and the aluminum part.
Last edited by colorful; Jul 28, 2025 at 03:41 AM.
I ended up buying two working headlights off eBay for $500 apiece. I now have two spares (the originals that burned out) that I can send off when it happens again and not leave a hole in my front end while they are getting repaired. Although I will probably buy the chip from powerfulUK and do the chip replacement myself.
Replacing the headlight on the vehicle is not bad, I can do one in about 20mins now.
FYI - I dug through my emails and found that Brandon at Lightwerkz said he could do the repair if sent in the headlight. You may try reaching out to him.
Replacing the headlight on the vehicle is not bad, I can do one in about 20mins now.
FYI - I dug through my emails and found that Brandon at Lightwerkz said he could do the repair if sent in the headlight. You may try reaching out to him.
Could you please share the ebay link that you bought the OEM headlight?
Thanks
I got one with a barely there scratch for $350 and change. Fixed the busted one for $3 before borking up the lens with acetone.
It's either a 30 min DIY replace for about $400 or a multi-hour repair for $10 when you buy some sealant and the DRL module.
There are a gagillion of them on e-bay.
I got one with a barely there scratch for $350 and change. Fixed the busted one for $3 before borking up the lens with acetone.
It's either a 30 min DIY replace for about $400 or a multi-hour repair for $10 when you buy some sealant and the DRL module.
I got one with a barely there scratch for $350 and change. Fixed the busted one for $3 before borking up the lens with acetone.
It's either a 30 min DIY replace for about $400 or a multi-hour repair for $10 when you buy some sealant and the DRL module.
Just would like to get light from the same shop who provide the working one like your, and avoid any extra troubleshooting or un-match model.
and indeed, that would be great comparison
30mins + $400 vs Multi-hour + 10$ + accessories
just get one from a breakers here in the states with a DRL and you’re all set.
Here is one from the same breakers I got my slightly blemished one. It’s a bit pricier than I paid. You can do better on price for sure.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/29685902806...sAAOSwwSRnUMBF
in the states we only have two types of lights. Those with DRLs and those without. We don’t have the fancy matrix ones like in Europe.
just get one from a breakers here in the states with a DRL and you’re all set.
Here is one from the same breakers I got my slightly blemished one. It’s a bit pricier than I paid. You can do better on price for sure.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/29685902806...sAAOSwwSRnUMBF
just get one from a breakers here in the states with a DRL and you’re all set.
Here is one from the same breakers I got my slightly blemished one. It’s a bit pricier than I paid. You can do better on price for sure.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/29685902806...sAAOSwwSRnUMBF
My one is matrix led with DRL (Matrix LED AFS123/IHB)
So just would like to make sure it fitted
Thanks Gavin
We have signature LEDs and regular (no halo)
hetcthe right ones and they’re a straight swap. Plug and play. No CCF jiggerypokery needed.
30 minutes for me and I’m as slow as a wet week.
110 has common daytime running lights problem, like BMW, Mercedes and Audi. My father, elder brother and I have 110, the DRL all have problems.
The previous friends mentioned replacing the used headlight assembly to solve this problem, but I don't recommend it, because the used headlights will also have the same DRL problem. For example, my father used an used headlight, and it not working less than half year.
Now his car and my car use antparts LEDs, and my elder brother uses Simon one. More then one year and it working fine so far so good.
I think it is flaw in the headlight design. The DRLs do not dissipate enough heat. LEDs only rely on a small aluminum to dissipate heat, and DRL inside the headlight.
The previous friends mentioned replacing the used headlight assembly to solve this problem, but I don't recommend it, because the used headlights will also have the same DRL problem. For example, my father used an used headlight, and it not working less than half year.
Now his car and my car use antparts LEDs, and my elder brother uses Simon one. More then one year and it working fine so far so good.
I think it is flaw in the headlight design. The DRLs do not dissipate enough heat. LEDs only rely on a small aluminum to dissipate heat, and DRL inside the headlight.
The lights that adapt to oncoming traffic.
I find the "auto" high beams on the Defender to be ... well rather terrible. They turn off if there's a reflective sign, or a street light - but then don't turn off if there's an oncoming car in the distance...
If the matrix lights react similarly I'd imagine its like a disco in front of the car constantly.
Does anyone have experience over here in the US with these?
I find the "auto" high beams on the Defender to be ... well rather terrible. They turn off if there's a reflective sign, or a street light - but then don't turn off if there's an oncoming car in the distance...
If the matrix lights react similarly I'd imagine its like a disco in front of the car constantly.
I find the "auto" high beams on the Defender to be ... well rather terrible. They turn off if there's a reflective sign, or a street light - but then don't turn off if there's an oncoming car in the distance...
If the matrix lights react similarly I'd imagine its like a disco in front of the car constantly.
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VillaDazzler
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