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My 2020 110 3.0L SE still has its original battery, making it about 4.5 years old now. It’s been working fine with no issues, and I keep it on a CTEK charger. However, I’m considering replacing it proactively to avoid a failure at an inconvenient time. I’m looking at the following options:
I decided to go with the Duralast Platinum AGM H8. It's got a 4-year warranty from AutoZone, so it should be an easy replacement if there's a problem. The original OEM battery, although it’s fine, is nearly 5 years old now, and it's going to get very hot here soon (southern Nevada). I didn't want it to fail at an inopportune time.
Here's the procedure I followed. Some of it might not be necessary, but I'm a cautious person.
1. Charged the new battery with my CTEK 8-stage charger. If it will hold a full charge, then you know it's probably okay.
2. To make it easier, I removed the four bolts (E-Torx 12) securing the front passenger seat and propped it up on some wood. Although it's possible to remove the battery by moving the seat up and forward, it's much easier further out of the way.
3. Disconnected the dash cam, etc. Anything I could switch off or disconnect, I did so.
4. Opened the front and rear passenger doors and let the car go to sleep.
5. Removed the panel over the battery.
6. Removed the negative terminal. I used an insulated Knipex 10mm open wrench.
7. Removed the positive terminal.
8. Taped the cable terminals and tied them to the seat bracket out of the way of the battery.
9. Used the plastic terminal covers from the new battery to cover the terminals on the old battery.
10. Disconnected the breather tube from its middle clip.
11. Removed the bracket securing the battery (two 10mm hex bolts). I wrapped the tools in tape - just in case.
12. Lifted out the battery onto the rear passenger footwell.
13. Removed the breather tube and removed the battery from the car.
14. Put the plastic terminal covers onto the new battery.
15. Put the new battery onto the rear passenger footwell and connected the breather tube to the positive side vent hole. (Note: the Duralast has a vent holes on both ends. There's a plug attached to the red plastic positive cover that comes with battery. Remove the plug and insert into the negative side vent hole.)
16. Lifted the battery in and connected the positive then negative terminals.
17. Connected the breather tube to its connector.
18. Refitted the bracket.
19. Refitted the battery panel.
20. Repositioned the front passenger seat.
21. Started the car. Ran the Gap fault check. Ran Gap battery replacement routine (Service Test - Gateway Module).
22. Bolted down the front passenger seat. Torque to 48 NMs. I used some anti-seize on the bolts (looked like there was some there when I removed them).
23. Checked all Pivi settings, lights, indicators, etc. Reconnected dash cam, etc.
24. Test drove. Re-checked battery terminals, seat bolts.
25. Reconnected to my CTEK charger. I've always kept my Defender on this charger. It worked very well with the old battery for nearly 5 years.
That's it. I've attached some photos. I've probably made it seem more complicated than it actually is. Apart from the access to the battery, it's pretty straightforward.
I was considering something similar and my googling gave me similar/same results for battery, but recently I did some testing of my battery (less than 4 years old) and it performs like new. Full voltage and takes a charge from my 1Amp CTEK charger overnight.
Perhaps there are other metrics (non-voltage) I need to assess but thus far, other than a little sluggish to start when sitting for days unused in the winter of Alberta, (-25F) it's been fine.
I'd let it ride. They seem to be up to the task of managing these juice-hungry Divafenders.
I know other on the forum have had major problems with batteries and apparently it's important for the relays in the 48V MHEV battery, that the regular 12V be firing on all cells. That was the reason I wanted to check it out.
I replaced mine last month with the Interstate you quoted. Seemed to be an exact replica of the OEM battery. One tip, just remove the seat securing bolts ( 2 front, 2 back) and shift the whole seat forward and prop up the rear with some blocks of wood. No need to remove it entirely nor disconnect any of the electronics underneath. Gives you the room you need to replace the battery with ease.
My 2020 110 3.0L SE still has its original battery, making it about 4.5 years old now. It’s been working fine with no issues, and I keep it on a CTEK charger. However, I’m considering replacing it proactively to avoid a failure at an inconvenient time. I’m looking at the following options:
All have the same CCA (900), CA (1000), Ah (95) and RC (160) and seem good replacements for the OEM battery.
What have others in the USA used?
I’ve not replaced my Rover battery but I work at AutoZone part time and the Duralast AGM now has a four-year warranty. We are given a great deal of latitude to replace batteries under warranty, and any AutoZoner can look up and replace a battery with just the phone number used when it was purchased. Two of my Jags now have Duralast batteries and they perform well.
I don't have an Odyssey in my Defender, but I have them in all of my other vehicles. The Odyssey in my FJ lasted 10 years being parked outside in the driveway in Maine. Never once failed on me, even after the alternator left the chat once.
If Odyssey makes a compatible battery for the Defender - it will be 100% what I put in without hesitation when the time comes.
OEM batteries usually last 2-3 years - replacement batteries 3-4 years (always exceptions on brand / quality / weather)
I replace mine more on age than issues/performance - it is usually the change of season that will zap one at the end of its life - IMO if you were driving for Thanksgiving from say Austin to Boston and your battery is 4 years old you might want to change it before you leave - once you get to Boston and the temp has dropped 50 degrees that can end the battery
Last edited by disco96sd; Apr 8, 2025 at 10:05 PM.
...some testing of my battery (less than 4 years old) and it performs like new.
I wonder what's the failure mode for these batteries, and how it differs with climate.
In our hot dry climate, batteries fail suddenly with sometimes no warning at all - yesterday it started just fine when you were going home from work, today it's dead. I think I've replaced at least six of them that failed this way over last 25 years - and with much displeasure, I just realized that their lifetime becomes shorter and shorter, the earliest lived over five years but the latest barely clear two, if at all.
Batteries are strange animals. JLR replaced mine at roughly two years old under warranty, but for comparison I owned a Volvo XC70 for 5 or 6 years, loved it. Ran beautifully, no issues. Finally needed a battery and since it is located in the rear cargo space, under the floorboards and completely enclosed in a protective box I never really saw it or gave it much thought. Upon removing it for replacement and reading the date code, discovered it was the original battery from manufacture. This battery was 14 years old. Nowadays you’re lucky to get 2-3 years out of one.
Battery replacement (USA)
