Ditto for Volvo, mine had 13 years old German OEM Varta. But Volvo has miniscule current drag compared to Defender and less finicky BMS regulator.

 

Dealer also changed mine last year (2020 defender), under warranty. One note, when securing it, there is a thin wire on the outside side of the passenger... don't pinch it when you re-bolt new battery... found that occurred with mine when it was replaced.

 

I decided to go with the Duralast Platinum AGM H8. It's got a 4-year warranty from AutoZone, so it should be an easy replacement if there's a problem. The original OEM battery, although it’s fine, is nearly 5 years old now, and it's going to get very hot here soon (southern Nevada). I didn't want it to fail at an inopportune time.

Here's the procedure I followed. Some of it might not be necessary, but I'm a cautious person.

1. Charged the new battery with my CTEK 8-stage charger. If it will hold a full charge, then you know it's probably okay.
2. To make it easier, I removed the four bolts (E-Torx 12) securing the front passenger seat and propped it up on some wood. Although it's possible to remove the battery by moving the seat up and forward, it's much easier further out of the way.
3. Disconnected the dash cam, etc. Anything I could switch off or disconnect, I did so.
4. Opened the front and rear passenger doors and let the car go to sleep.
5. Removed the panel over the battery.
6. Removed the negative terminal. I used an insulated Knipex 10mm open wrench.
7. Removed the positive terminal.
8. Taped the cable terminals and tied them to the seat bracket out of the way of the battery.
9. Used the plastic terminal covers from the new battery to cover the terminals on the old battery.
10. Disconnected the breather tube from its middle clip.
11. Removed the bracket securing the battery (two 10mm hex bolts). I wrapped the tools in tape - just in case.
12. Lifted out the battery onto the rear passenger footwell.
13. Removed the breather tube and removed the battery from the car.
14. Put the plastic terminal covers onto the new battery.
15. Put the new battery onto the rear passenger footwell and connected the breather tube to the positive side vent hole. (Note: the Duralast has a vent holes on both ends. There's a plug attached to the red plastic positive cover that comes with battery. Remove the plug and insert into the negative side vent hole.)
16. Lifted the battery in and connected the positive then negative terminals.
17. Connected the breather tube to its connector.
18. Refitted the bracket.
19. Refitted the battery panel.
20. Repositioned the front passenger seat.
21. Started the car. Ran the Gap fault check. Ran Gap battery replacement routine (Service Test - Gateway Module).
22. Bolted down the front passenger seat. Torque to 48 NMs. I used some anti-seize on the bolts (looked like there was some there when I removed them).
23. Checked all Pivi settings, lights, indicators, etc. Reconnected dash cam, etc.
24. Test drove. Re-checked battery terminals, seat bolts.
25. Reconnected to my CTEK charger. I've always kept my Defender on this charger. It worked very well with the old battery for nearly 5 years.

That's it. I've attached some photos. I've probably made it seem more complicated than it actually is. Apart from the access to the battery, it's pretty straightforward.

 

Excellent write up @denhams . You just about covered everything on that list. I think the only thing I would add to the list would be a lot of lines describing the grunting, swearing, and cursing of JLR around 12 & 16 as you lift that HEAVY battery out of and into a VERY awkward position. Maybe even add 2-3 lines about questioning the parentage of the JLR engineers.

 

Thanks for the step by step write up @denhams. I noticed you used the GAP tool for your replacement but I’m curious if the battery can be owner-replaced without the GAP tool. I’ve heard conflicting opinions regarding this, but if anyone can weigh in on this, it would be helpful to myself and any others contemplating replacing it at home without the GAP tool.

 

@WTFChuck - I replaced my battery less than a year ago. I didn't use the GAP tool for the replacement. I forgot what voodoo I did, but I think I read that it will auto relearn the BMP/BPM (whatever the battery management is called). It did that for me.

EDIT: Revisited my original post on all issues battery. Link. Battery died from being stored too long without a battery tender. Post #13 is my version of @denhams removal and all the procedures to go through. Someone reading this new - Pro-tip: Jump the battery long enough to move the passenger seat up & forward. Trust me.... Post #20 is my version of returning the battery. #21 is the "after report" and #24 is about the dead SOS battery. If it drains enough to kill the main battery, the little battery with all the tracking/monitoring that JLR does will soon follow. As a bonus round, it's pretty recent but my version of a magnetic battery tender so this pita doesn't happen again (Link). Through all that (to save you the reading) I didn't do ANY GAP work. I think I reference what happens, but it auto relearns. Maybe the GAP would accelerate things.

Anyone on this forum for more than a week will know how flaky the electrical system is. It's encouraging that the Children of the Dark Lord Lucas still survive...To those who don't understand the poetry: Apologies for the obscure(?) reference to the early manufacturer of Land Rover electronics which was widely panned. If you've been around Land Rovers (or classic ones), you will know the joke: Why do the British enjoy warm beer? Because Lucas makes refrigerators....

 

Thanks for the DIY guide @denhams ! I plan on Odyssey when I replace ours, I have not been able to kill one yet. Caveat is that it does require a specific charger. These can be found with lifetime warranty from some online retailers.

 

Thanks for the write up. I just had to replace my battery (unbelievably) on my 2023 130. Had all sorts of gremlins, check engine light, gearbox fault, some strange electrical clicking when I accelerated half throttle. Hope it all goes away.

Anyway, I’m unable to find Gateway module under service test. Can’t find battery replacement routine anywhere. Any tips? Autozone did whatever they did with their computer and claim everything is set. But all these strange issues have me worried.

Thought I’d check to make sure the terminals were tight, when I took off the battery cover, I heard all sorts of noises from the battery. When I retightened the already tight terminals, the interior lights were blinking. At one point the truck lost all power. It’s more than a little disconcerting, lol.

 

Same here. I have 2 in my lr3. A 1350 i think as starter and 2150 as house battery for the fridge and some other things. I got about 10 yrs out of the first 2150.

 

I replaced my 2022 battery with an Odyssey this June. I'll have to let everyone know in about 3-4 years if it was a good choice. So far, so good.