For what it's worth, we've had better experiences with the wireless CarPlay since it became available than we did before when it was wired only. It's basically been flawless, whereas we had occasional dropouts via the wired USB connection.

On other vehicles, when we've had connection issues the best method has simply been to delete the phone in the car, also delete the car on the phone, and then re-pair from scratch. There's no point in troubleshooting. Just delete and re-pair. It's faster and almost always works.

 

I never had any issues with the wireless carplay

 

I know I am in the minority, but I'm probably the only one on here that absolutely hates CarPlay. I once let my friend borrow my car for an afternoon and I told him that I'd key his car if he activated CarPlay when he asked me how to pair his phone. The last thing I want is iOS on my dashboard. The Pivi system is genuinely one of the best in the industry, unlike the old InControl Touch Pro system in my old D5.

 

I had a flakiness pretty much the second I pulled out of the dealer lot. Connecting to the vehicle’s WiFi network has made it rock solid since.

 

Hard to put a finger on what is causing this. First off most us us do not have identical phones running the exact same software version. Then there seems to be a spread of software versions on the car itself. With so many variables it could be many things, like 4.1.2 only plays well with iPhones 15 running iOS 17.5 and so on. All I know, mine can work fine for weeks then when I go to certain places it totally flakes out. I still like it when I drive by this uplink station in the middle of the I40 that reports on I suppose traffic & weather it goes all wonky. Then there are several BNSF railroad signaling boxes that do it as well, aside from Chase Bank the post office and so on. They all emit RF of some sort. If I still had my spectrum analyzer, I could be definitive. Alas, I have been selling off my very cool but very infrequently used expensive boxes. My kids, after I was bitching about cleaning out my mom's home, said, "Dad, you have a bunch of cool stuff with is probably really expensive, which we have no idea what they are!" I have been clearing the shelves.

If we all had the same phones running the same software on both ends, it would be easier to troubleshoot. At the moment it could be the car, the phone, or just where you are.

 

connect phone with usb cable and you'll see if it's RF related or software.

 

I live in high density area, PIVI has no good real time traffic or up to date speed traps etc, have to use google or waze.

 

So I had the exact same thought as you, and much to my surprise, even when wired the two (very specific) locations that always cause a drop do so regardless of how it's connected . One of them is right by an airport, and the other is as you drive past the police HQ. You can guarantee a drop out as you drive right by each one.

 

I think it still using either BT or WIFI when wired, so that rules the interference not car glitches or IOS. I have the same problem near runway ILS array, even my wireless brake controller disconnects.

 

I am a new defender owner 2024 - 110 and i I don’t understand why we should accept it. I understand maybe wireless having interference occasionally but I have put aftermarket wireless car play in both of my kids vehicles and they work very well. Our new defender has flaky connection both wireless and WIRED. My 2018 Silverado works flawless with a wired connection. This is just not okay on a vehicle in this price range.

Please post if anyone has found a solution because this is very disappointing. Thanks all