Do anyone have a recent update on the part availability of these parts? Mine died last weekend - a few take aways from the LR shop:

- parts number has been updated twice since 2020isch
- temperature does not cause the failure - even though mine died in minus 14 degrees Celsius.
- they don’t have a clue as to when I will get my car back

For what it’s worth; LR service has been flawless - picked up my car same day - and delivered a loaner on my address the day after.

Any insights will be highly appreciated - thanks!

 

Well, its my turn. My 2022 P400 bricked itself while descending a snowy mountain road two days ago. It took 3 jump starts and finally 15 minutes of road-side charging from a kind man with a GMC Duramax just to get me back into civilization. Nine hours, 260km, and $1,500 of flatbed towing later, I dumped the brick in my JLR dealer's service lot. SO DISAPPOINTING. They called today to confirm its a DC/DC converter failure. They also acknowledged they are seeing a LOT of these lately. The service advisor hopes that they will issue a recall eventually. Mine is off warranty. The replacement converter is at least A MONTH away and the bill will be $2,100. Plus they want to replace the 12V battery for another $700. Thankfully they will provide a loaner car at some point next week, hopefully. I also put in a call to JLR Canada to initiate a formal complaint. Perhaps they will start to do something about this.

My biggest issue is that I'm going to have a hard time trusting this vehicle when I'm off roading deep in the backcountry from now on.

 

What PIVI version is your truck on?

 

Wow! $700 for a battery? I just replaced mine, third in just over 4 years of ownership. I went with a DieHard Platinum AGM, available at many parts stores. Runs about $259 and has 900 CCA compared to the OEM battery at 850 CCA and carries a four year warranty. Can be done by a DIY’er, but a word of caution, it is heavy and cumbersome to finagle into the compartment under the passenger seat, and to avoid losing some settings and possibly throwing codes, I used a battery maintainer to keep 12V in the system while removing the main battery. If you are not confident doing this yourself, visit a battery/tire center to save money, compared to the $700 quoted by the dealer. My local battery/tire shop charges $75 to install.

 

I'm not sure. But I assume its the latest version because it did a self-update a few weeks ago.

 

Ya, there's no way I'm going to pay them $700 for an AGM battery! And I am definitely confident in being able to swap it myself (I'm confident in my 14 year old son swapping it out LOL). I'm going to search for a direct replacement lithium battery. Initial search says it's a BCI Group 48/H6 or 49/H8 size. I figure I want as much 12V battery capacity as I can possibly get, because if/when the DC converter dies again every amp hour of capacity is probably another minute of driving the truck to safety!

 

According to what I've seen the P/N has been updated 4 times:
LR131043
LR172325
LR178516
433123456
433123464 (newest)

They seem to be making some kind of incremental changes, but clearly NOT fixing the issue.

I found the newest P/N available from at least 3 suppliers very easily with costs from $750 to $1200 CDN. Clearly the dealerships can't source them from the aftermarket, but they are out there. I asked my dealer if I could buy and supply my own DC converter for them to install and he said yes, but they would not provide any warranty. If I wait one month (hopefully) for them to source one I would get a 1 year warranty. Only because they said they would supply a loaner vehicle did I agree to waiting the month in order to have a warranty on their dubious DC converter.

 

Thank you for clarifying the P/N - it shows LR is apparently still struggling with this component. With 50k km on it during 2 years of ownership, my Defender has been flawless up to this point. I love my Defender but this have made me re-consider keeping the car out of warranty.

 

Watched PowerfulUK’s video on the DC to DC converter and the electric PTC heater. It seems my PTC heater may not be working, as I performed a Remote Climate start and request this morning and when I got in the Defender after five minutes, there was no response from the climate control system, the controls were dark, no fan running, no heat. Conversely, last week when I did a Remote Climate start and set the temperature to cool the interior, it functioned properly. So, I need to find out why the heating function is not coming on. Does anyone have knowledge of where the PTC electric pre-heater is located? I’m sure it is not in an easily reached location. And I will need to troubleshoot its function; is it software not activating it, or is the PTC pre-heater bad, or is it related to the DC to DC converter and it’s known issues?

 

I'd guess the PTC heater is buried deep in the dash right beside the heater core (engine coolant HVAC heat exchanger). Please let us know if you determine some relevant things in your troubleshooting.
I would personally like to disable my PTC as I can see how having a 600W, 12V heater light up every time I start the truck is stressful to the fragile DC converter. The PTC probably runs on startup 6 or 7 months of the year where I live. I can survive for a couple of minutes while the coolant heats up, just like every other vehicle I've owned for 30 years. I've looked quickly to see if there is a fuse (should be 50A to 60A at least) that is labeled PTC heater or similar, but nothing pops out. My next step was going to ask PowerfulUK if they have found a way to disable it with a fuse or the GapID tool.