Just did my rear pads, without the GAP tool. Not necessary to have the GAP when doing the brakes. The EPB is only on the rears, not the fronts. Service mode is not required when doing the rears, also. There is a process/procedure to deactivate the EPB before starting the rears, allowing the DIY’er to swap out the pads and/or rotors without going into Service Mode or GAP tool.

 

Yes. Once you disengage the EPB and have the engine off you're good to go.

I found doing the rears a lot simpler. No monster bolts with the two step torque to deal with.
Also, repositioning the guide pins in the floating caliper while manhandling the caliper and keeping strain off the brake line took a little patience and a modicum of sailor-talk. .

 

Did you do pads only? How was the rotor? For those that have done pad changes (front or back) is it fair to say the rotors will make it to the next pad change?

 

To my very untrained eye, the rotors on all 4 corners look perfect. Fat and true. I swapped rear pads 15,000 miles ago (58k) and now the fronts. I can't see any need for new rotors for a long time.

 

I'll be due for brakes probably within the next 5k miles - currently at 48k miles. I will have to replace both pads and rotors. My rotors are definitely shot. Discernable lip around the edge. I have the P300 with the smallest brakes, so they aren't the same as the Brembos on yours. Parts are about $1,500.00 at my dealer with a slight discount.

At least it's better than my old LR4 that ate brakes like nobody's business, and my 2023 Macan needs new pads and rotors at 20k miles. $3,700.00 for brakes, and my preferred Euro shop is only a couple hundred less. That has big performance Brembos on it, and you have to pay the Porsche tax.

 

Like you I have the small brakes (P300 D90). Currently at 48,500 miles. Changing tires in the next couple months so when all wheels are off will measure the rotors to see how they look against spec. I typically change pads and rotors at the same time in all my cars but with no science behind it and these rotors aren’t exactly cheap, so worth checking if they truly need to be replaced. Will report back.

 

For 4 rotors, pads, wear sensor(s) and any associated hardware that's not too bad but you can probably do a bit better. Maybe not.

I was looking for any sign of a lip on the rotors but the seem completely flush with the edges. Boiler plate LR advice is pads and rotors at the same time but I think this is more from the standpoint of doing it just right so they don't have any do-overs related to warped rotors and the like.

I found it interesting (I'm something of a nerd) that the inner front pad was markedly more worn than the outer. This was the same on right and left so it's clearly a normal thing. The wear sensor is positioned on that pad too. I wonder why the wear pattern is thus. Something related to centripetal force and lateral load under turning is my guess.
Edit: A dumb guess. Possibly just more force on the piston on the inner aspect.

 

Have you checked to see if they can be turned to eliminate the lip? Seems like it would be a lot cheaper.

 

It is funny, my rear pads are due for a change but fronts are fine at around 31,000 miles on the Defender.

Unfortunately, I do have some shimmy-shimmy wobble when slowing to a stop, so I am guessing my rotors (either front or rear) are slightly wobbly or warped or pad material issues. It’s interesting that alot of folks are getting more than one pad change out of these rotors. I’m definitely not. I might drive it a bit too aggressively though, I wonder if that is it.

 

The front pads are massive. Probably 4 times the surface area of the rears. I think rears needing changing first is the norm on these. Rears were done at 58k for me. Might have gotten them to 60k